Have been offered the Ducati Performance kit for the 1098R from a reputable Ducati dealer/team. The kit comprises of the RS camshaft, cams, reskim, trumpets, ecu, etc Has anyone here done the conversion before or have first hand experience with it on their own 1098R? There are supposedly a couple of 1098Rs in the UK that had this conversion done according to the dealer when the bike was first sold in 08/09. Not sure if they are still around though
I've got the DP race cams, 60mm bell mouths and ECU. In addition I've the 70mm exhaust system. On the dyno it read 190.3 rwbhp with 99.4 torque. If anything it slows me down on track cos I keep having to roll off in the first three gears before it loops me. Its an insane beast and I don't think I have the skills to get the most from it. Its bloody laugh out loud fun trying all the same.....
Have you ridden a standard 1098R for comparison, and apart from the extra HP at the top end, what's the rideability and engine behaviour like through the low and midrange? Are there any servicing issues or were you advised about having to increase the frequency of servicing? The SBK RS engines which was the 1098R engine + same cams and trumpets were lifed for only 1500kms, but I am unsure of whether this was really through necessity or just commercials to make teams keep buying fresh engines.
talk to Al at Snells (the AK from CK & AK). He has built motors like this and from memory, he has put kit parts in one of his own motors.
The guy, Bullet, I was chatting to had similar and said keeping it under control (even for a front end club racer) was tough! Over 100lb ft torq plus 190+ rwbhp must be tough. No wonder he spends money on the best Dunlop slicks available, grip grip grip!
Am tempted to do this, especially as a) parts are getting harder to come by, and b) the R could do with a bit more at the top end. I love the midrange/torque of the motor especially when pootling around on the road, but it lacks the top end rush when wringing its neck. I'm keen to get the most out of the motor, but my main concern is to not overtune it to the point it needs regular rebuilds etc. The guys at MotoRapido seem confident of the upgrades, and should be given their experience running the Airwaves 1098R/RS in SBK.
As you know the 1098R in standard is fairly potty. I'd say below 5k its the same but above this through to top end you can feel its had a shot in the arm. I notice at trackdays its impossible to keep it at 5k for the noise test scrutineers. As it gets to 5k it wants to go.... As for servicing. I carry out oil/filter changes religiously, probably over careful on this one but I like to keep an eye on the magnetic particulate plug. As for belts (yearly), shims etc same old.
Err, no... Then yes. It was rebuilt some time ago by MotoRapido. I went for a reliable rebuild and has so far done over 1000 track miles. It's still an absolute missile and lost none of its mentalness. Love it....
Thanks for that, sounds great! What is a 'reliable rebuild'? I'm asking as I've collected enough stuff for an RS-spec motor build but am now unsure what to actually put in the engine for reasons of reliability/longevity as I simply can't be tearing the motor apart every 1K miles! Thanks again!
When I say reliable build what I actually mean is that I didn't go crackers for extra power. I kept it fairly standard. I went for balanced crankshaft, polished inlet ports and a wee bit more squish. Bear in mind it has the DP cams fitted. I also had the gearbox rebuilt and super finished (recommended btw) I was temped down the route of super duper Pistal pistons (but I stayed standard), lightened flywheel, aggressive valve settings etc... Maybe giving me 15hp more but eating into reliability margins at the same time. It's a bit of a balancing act when you rebuild.... Reliability against poke, I think we all like both. Talk to an engine builder about it and weigh up your options. Good luck and keep us posted.
Aaaaand all above brought together with a custom remap on a dyno by Wilf Moore at MotoRapido. 1st class job and I was/am delighted with it. Not the cheapest option all in all but A1 job. You get what you pay for IMO.
Also depends on what you set the limiters as. Soft limiter (Spark) at 10,500 or 11K, and hard limiter (Fuel) no higher than 11,5K. You should get long life (relatively speaking) out of them if you do this. It's the high piston speeds combined with the 15.2:1 compression ratio that caused the factory race engines to deteriorate so quickly. They spun them to 13,300RPM!
