Bike was on trickle charge until yesterday morning. And started immediately after 6 weeks on trickle and quite a few times on my journey down. Been off trickle and now showing 11.2v Any ideas?
Looks like it's a duff battery not holding charge, anything other it would have lost charge yesterday while riding. Steve
ate of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage 12V 6V 100% 1.265 12.7 6.3 75% 1.225 12.4 6.2 50% 1.190 12.2 6.1 25% 1.155 12.0 6.0 Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0 - See more at: Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batte | BatteryStuff Articles The second row of numbers indicate vaults. 12.7 fully charged 11.9 discharged. Steve
Apologies if I am being dim but if you inject fresh fluid from the bottom, what happens at the top - does the reservoir not overflow all over your precious paintwork? I can see that reverse filling is a good plan - if you pump the old fluid out of the bottom first and then refill up to the mark but if you don't purge the old fluid from the bottom first, how do you get rid of it? Also, you are saying that mineral fluid is non-corrosive and @Mr.R is saying that synthetic fluid is non corrosive. This is a little confusing...
Indeed but according to the Opie oils article, 5.1 is also Glycol, only 5 is something else. Is synthetic 5.1 non corrosive glycol or is it something else again?
So if you can do it, why can't Ducati? If Oberon can make a slave cylinder that uses a slightly different size bore to make it feel lighter but still have enough stroke for the clutch to clear properly, why don't Ducati? Not exactly rocket science.
If you're just bleeding the system suck out some fluid from the reservoir with the syringe first to make room. But if you've got a slack lever the chances are there's been fluid loss anyway. The clutch reservoir on the SMT (which I flushed and bled last week) is tiny and the diaphragm under the lid takes up half its capacity so with the lid off there's plenty off room to expel air without overflowing. There's no window or fill mark though so you've got to be careful to get the final level right allowing room for the diaphragm before you screw the lid down. I'm still confused as to which fluids are corrosive and which not. But I do know that piston seals designed for one type of fluid can be damaged by using something different, whether its corrosive to paint or not, so I'd be checking compatibility before changing.
Fellow members, After bleeding the clutch and getting feel back into the lever within seconds today i took the bike out for spin, within 10 minutes lever lost its resistance and had no clutch, out with the 11mm spanner and tube and bled it again, resistance came back. 2 mins later, same again. Managed to get home in first gear. My question is, how do i check if its slave or master cylinder? Spoke to a mechanic friend who is convinced its the master cylinder, checked prices of these, £240.......ouch. Dont really want to take it to Daytona in Ruilsip even though they are just down the road, would rather fix it myself. All advice appreciated
Plenty on eBay, a little cheaper DUCATI 1098 BREMBO FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER PUMP 1198 848 EVO | eBay Or a rebuild kit if you are feeling adventureous. They look to be around £25
If you manage to see air come out of the bleed nipple at the slave straight after you have lost pressure then it confirms it's the slave (or that end of the system anyway) if you think about it. You wouldn't get air at that end as a result of a master cylinder slave. The whole system would have to be dry/no fluid in reservoir before you would subsequently see air at the slave as a result of the master cylinder end. Make sure banjo/copper washers are sealing properly at slave cylinder as this could cause the same result.
My 916 had a similar problem while in Germany - came in for petrol and no clutch!! When pumping clutch I watched the plate - very little movement! Bleeding brought a little relief enough to get moving again but only temporary! Swapping the slave cylinder from aftermarket Oberon one to 996 one cured it tho! Never happened again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My clutch m/c did exactly the same last year. I had a spare slave and tried that first. Start with the cheapest.
At a push - I could loan you one to test if it's the master cylinder. Mine is currently fitted to my bike so would be a bit of a hassle...but if you are completely stuck. Perhaps some kind soul has one already removed from a bike that could be loaned to the Mr @SP4S ?
Ricky That's very kind of you to offer bit I can't let you do that. Still have a few checks to carry out, so that I can pinpoint the offending cylinder.
Cool - your 12yr old is cooking Sunday roast - impressed!! my 11yr old cant make toast ffs Her wee sister (9) is quite good at making the scrambled eggs tho [emoji39]
Sp4s There's a couple of slave cylinders on eBay for £20 or best offer! Or failing that - take off the slave, check the rod , seals etc then re-install and bleed again If still not working it may be m/c
