Nah, doubt it. There would be some fairly obvious signs if this were the case. When there's a major mechanical there is usually fluid where it shouldn't be.
first things first is do everything you can with the clutch sensor side. many here will be more qualified than me. but im not just throwing random suggestions, a mechanical engineer father, qualified mechanic myself. had a think and that was our outcome. if not electric, then compression and block investigation is where WE would go. an engine can quite happily sit running not red hot in race mode and be fine. and only once under high compression and high heat does the issue reveal. only to return back to normal once cooled. where does the power band start on your bike? about the same revs as the issue? to my knowledge you don't get more power without more compression.
In retrospect I think the schematic I posted has only confused things, sorry about that! It only seems to deal with the conditions under which the bike can and can't be started (probably why it's called "1198 starter interlock"...), not with when the engine will stop (e.g. bike in gear, put side stand down). To answer the OP's question we'd need more information on what exactly the ECU does, doubt that's generally available? I agree with Mary Hinge - the easiest way to check this out is to wire the clutch switch so it's definitely open, or definitely closed, and see if the problem goes away.
Here's the update folks. The clutch switch seems fine but the clutch itself is fubar and the TC unit in the tail unit doesn't seem to be in the correct place so potentially causing issues. It seems to be mounted on a handmade piece of aluminium. Any advice on the TC unit? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Mines also retro fitted but in a silicone gell. Aluminium is very conductive so not the best. Get a new a module, I don't think they're daft money, and fit in a more appropriate foundation. If it's not that either keep as a spare (not a bad spare) or return it. Also, double check wiring and fittings integrity.
Got any photos? What difference does the conductivity of the mounting make? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sorry if I'm off base. But you didn't really explain the initial problem in detail before jumping to the clutch switch. Power loss under load? Can you go into detail on what is happening and when its happening. Since its a race bike I'm guessing wot? is it happening on initial wot or higher rpm higher gear or all the time?
WOT or not there is a misfire around 7Krpm and the limiter seems to come in early at 10Krpm. Odd loss of drive and bouncing revs changing from 3rd to 4th every time. Video of me limping around the track with these problems here Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You shoulda told us where it happens in the video. I didn't have the patients to watch the whole thing I saw the one part where the rpm was bouncing pretty good. I'm going to make some guesses. no bazzaz or dynojet or any other aftermarket electronics rights? Do you have a quickshifter? Is the bike race prepped or do you still have side stand? I noticed that on hard downshifts (where rpm spikes) you don't seem to lose power. Just when under load/accelerating?
wouldnt be something simple like a stick coil breaking down under load would it?? i know the 999's suffered with broken coils as all the crud and crap got into them!!
Just watch the rpms and listen carefully. You will hear it at 7K. There are no aftermarket parts like dynojet etc. And the side stand is removed. This seems to be only when accelerating. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sorry mate, no pictures. I'm away working offshore at the mo. You're probably OK with the aluminium mount plate, it's just not great practice mounting electronic components on highly conductive metals as it can lead to earth faults. As I said earlier, the faults you're having remind me of my buddy (also on a 1098R) at Almeria. He was having misfires around 7-8k rpm. I was following him and could hear it. We isolated the TC and it was fine.
I need to know exactly how the TC unit is mounted originally so that it can be put back there. I've read a Ducati document that says the placement is critical, including the angle it's at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
again only to try to bring light from another angle, somthing that can feel like missfire, maybe valve clearance or valve timing
Not going to be a coil, the ecu would throw a coil 10 or 11 error. I just wanted to make sure you didn't have any aftermarket electronics. They can be notorious for little problems and you always want to eliminate the easy stuff first. Slinky, give this a try..Its not super accurate but will eliminate another potential problem. Tank around 1/2 full, open the cap and put your ear to the opening and turn the key on so the system primes. You're listening for a gurggling sound. If you can't hear anything, then key off and try again shining a flashlight into the tank. You're looking for bubbles or sloshing. I've had a problem like yours with a couple of my previous race bikes. An old duck (the problem was a hole in the hose on the fuel pump). Hose had broken down and on wot the hose tore. I would lose power on wot but it would be fine doing anything else. Including reving in the pits..Would only happen under load. Second time it was a fuel pump that was on its way out. Basically the same symptoms. WOT under load and you'd get the bogging, any other time and it would feel fine. 3rd time was a friends zx6r. It was either the rectofier or regulator that was failing. The fuel pump needed the extra juice at load and would bog. I've not heard of tc unit mounting being an issue before. I know there are aftermarket subframes that don't have mounting points and ppl put them however they can. Turn it off as a test and see if it makes a difference.
The Ducati service tool doesn't show any errors so it doesn't look like a faulty component. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I very nearly purchased this bike! then the owner stripped some bits and lowered the asking price... Prior to this he had it all setup nice and ran it on a rolling road... But to me its not the same bike now and maybe the misfire has come back since the goodies have been removed?... He admits its an old fault. Anyways, you say the bike performed faultlessly, until you changed the clutch lever? Being nosy, why did you change it? and if you think you damaged the 'switch' couldn't it be bypassed? As the bike has been changed etc, I would be inclined to put it back on a rolling road and check the mapping? Interesting what Budpest come back with,, so good luck and do let us know what the outcome is....
