Cant you grip the preload adjuster with some bigger stilsons!!! see if you can put a bit of clingfilm between the socket and the metal to eliminate the bradders damage you are doing!
Zip tie around the fork leg, pushed up to the dust seal with the bike standing upright with no one on the bike, then sit on the bike, then get off and measure from the zip tie back up to the dust seal,but cannot get any more than 20mm, when nut is wound fully out or 6 turns in
Bike upright, nobody on it. Pull upwards to extend the forks (or put on a centre stand type thing). Measure length between fork stanchion and axle or other repeatable datum. Put bike on ground gently. Remeasure. Subtract second measurement from first. That is your static sag.
Er no...... you need 1) the free length of the forks with no weight on the tyre first 2) the bike on the ground on its own measure same places 3) rider and bike measure same place. three separate measurements The main interesting number is free length minus the rider and bike length.
I will go into the garage after dinner and do a recheck, will let you know the numbers. Looks like I was calculating the wrong dimensions Thanks guys
Well these are the front forks Free length 434 Bike on ground 395 Bike and rider 380 So looks like 54 sag so needs more compression on the red nut On the rear Free length 613 Bike on ground 585 Bike and rider 561 So rear sag is 52, again needs tightening up on the lock rings on the rear shock is that correct so what would you suggest to go for, the bike is not used on the track just for fast Sunday afternoon rides, no pillion
Wind the pre load in until you get about 40 front (just bike not you on it) and 30 rear Should be about 10 less with you on it (30 and 20). If it’s not the springs are too light/heavy so you need to start adjusting that’s a starting point anyway
That’s great, will try to adjust it in the morning and let you know Really do appreciate all your time guys
No it isn't... you didn't give him the first and most important number clearly enough or your agreeing mate! ......he now knows where he is going!
More inaccurate advise.... Presumably you are riding this on the road? 30 and 20 are more like a setting for a smooth track. and if you truly want 30 and 20 then it should be the difference between full free length and rider on bike. But its a monster and for the road so you don't want it that hard. I would start with 50 front and 30 rear. and see how that feels on the road. then make notes making one adjustment at a time and recording it and your feedback But who knows eh!
40/30 is standard setting by probably every expert in the world to start with (1/3rd travel), with 10 or so for rider depending on ‘expert’. I’ve read enough and seen enough videos and spoken to enough people who get paid to do it. Bike sag. And for road. Track is less. For ‘most’ bikes with regular travel not exceptional like maybe trials bikes. From there personal preference takes over. Some on track have less that 10 rider sag (way too little IMO)
So do your front measurement from the bottom of the fork outer tube just from the lip of the fork seal down to the top of the calliper mount, the full potential travel of the fork. You will need an assistant, or if you put a cable tie on the tube and slide it right up to the lead edge of the seal with the wheel off the ground. there's our first measurement. Now as Bradders says, there sort of is an industry standard that does equate to 40 at the front, or better still call it a third of the overall travel of the fork. But 40 is assuming/misinforming that the fork has a travel of 120mm. Plus the 40 is a good starting point for riding on the track. So measure here with the front wheel off the ground. Come back to me when you find as its a monster1100 evo with Marzocci forks the full extent travel is 130mm at our measurement not 120mm like forks on a sports bike. So a third would be around 44mm, if measured in this same place wheel back on the ground and rider on board. However, for the road with all its undulations and pot holes, I would start at 50mm so slightly more than a third.
No problem just need to pop out for a couple of hours so will check the measurements when I get back Just to be clear 1st from top of calliper mount to the dust seal with all weight off the bike 2nd from top of calliper mount to dust seal with bike on ground and rider on ideally should be 50mm difference ? is that the same for the rear but measurements can be from centre of rear axle to a fixed point on the seat unit, again fully extended suspension wheel off the ground, then wheel on the ground rider on board and there should be 30mm difference
yeah for a starting point. 1st from top of calliper mount to the dust seal with all weight off the bike there is a 2 ie weight of just the bike on the ground this isn't that important beyond the fact you need some drop in number in there to prove the spring isn't coil bound... 3rd from top of calliper mount to dust seal with bike on ground and rider on.
"is that the same for the rear but measurements can be from centre of rear axle to a fixed point on the seat unit, again fully extended suspension wheel off the ground, then wheel on the ground rider on board and there should be 30mm difference" yes use a bit of tape to mark a point directly above the rear axle... and I would start at 40, again because of the longer rear shock travel because of the type of bike it is.
