Just got back from hols and so am going to swap my eco over tomorrow. Is it an easy job? If I'm honest i don't even know where it is on this model I could read the manual i suppose but this forum is more fun.
Easy job just Remove left side fairing disconnect the battery, Underneath the battery is the ecu remove both connector sockets they swivel with the locking tab on the top. Remove the bolts and the ecu will slip out Theres a wire connector that goes to one off the bolts dont forget to refit the wire
Thanks mate. Did i t today. Didn't have to disconnect the battery, it just popped out from under it once i removed the two allen bolts. Looking forward to seeing how it performs tomorrow. Watch this space!
Wow. Like a new bike. It now idles at 1300 rpm rather than the previous 1650 ish. Only once rose to the 90's on the temperature gauge, and this was going through Mayfair which is alway pretty slow/stop start. More importantly not once did the revs not come down as i was coming to a standstill, and the stationary reving has stopped too. No more popping and farting between 3000 and 4000 rpm either. I was thinking as i was riding in to work what a stroke of luck @chrisw's ecu flashing skills and (the big one) him having a custom map for an 1198s with Akra's on it. I must of been good in a previous life Probably my imagination but it even sounds better now. Is that possible? Also just goes to show what having the incorrect map for your exhaust system can do. Is there a logical explanation as to why a poorly fuelled bike would cause the revs to have a mind of their own?
My knowledge of ride by wire, ECUs and throttle bodies is sketchy at best but the goal has to be the same as for carbs - to provide the perfect air/fuel ratio for any given position of the twist grip from idle to full power. If you alter the engine configuration, this will no longer be correct and the more you change it, the worse it will be. Fuelling is what delivers revs, the more air and fuel you give the engine, the faster it will rev and the more power it will give. So, if the fuelling is no longer correct for a given engine configuration, then revs are bound to be affected and the greater the deviation from standard, the the greater the effect. That's my logic, anyhow. Manufacturers cannot always deliver the perfect air/fuel ratio for performance because they have to make compromises in order to comply with emissions and noise regs, so even with a new, unsullied machine, I'm sure there are improvements to be made to the factory maps. So, if someone has produced a map for your exact engine and exhaust, without having to make compromises, the benefits should be very real. Of course, the ECU also controls ignition timing and it could be that Ducati do things like retarding the ignition at certain speeds in order to comply with noise regs. If that's the case, then a new map would have even more benefits. So if you now have an engine that is getting the correct fuelling and ignition timing at all times, then it's very possible you can indeed hear as well as feel the difference. As for engine cooling, I can well understand the reassurance given by the temp gauge remaining below 100c. However, as I've said before, I'm not sure of the benefits to the engine itself. Ducati could very easily do the same thing and they choose not to. There has to be a reason for that and I suspect it is because allowing the oil to reach 100c allows any water that has condensed into the oil to boil off. Water in the oil produces 'mayonnaise' that can clog up oil galleries etc and water in the oil also promotes corrosion, it is a bad thing. When your engine has been running at 70c during free riding and then jumps to 100 plus in traffic, it is alarming but as long as the temp remains below 125c or so, it should actually come to little harm. The cooling system is pressurised in order to raise the boiling point of the coolant and the coolant itself has a higher boiling point than plain water. The combined effect is to raise the boiling point of the engine coolant to around 130c. Synthetic engine oil is also well able to take these temperatures, so an engine running at or around 100c should be absolutely fine. The normal running temp for my 320d is exactly 100c. The gauge rises to that temperature and stays there until you switch the engine off. I have just returned from driving across Europe and back in high temperatures and low, at high speeds and in serious jams. The temperature never budged - 100c all day long.
Back again with the same problem, although previously it would rev itself at the lights, now it just sticks at 2k rpm. Have the correct map on so don't believe that is the issue, could it be the TPS? Try as i might i can't connect to my ECU with Tune ECU so am unable to reset it. It only happens once it gets hot, up to around 98°, and is sometimes controllable by bringing the clutch out to almost stalling and then releasing so the revs stick at 1k rpm.
My 1198 used to do this prior to fitting slash cuts. Was annoying. I believe its linked to the EXV as I am sure mine disappeared once i binned that daft valve shit thing. I then fitted slash cuts and race ecu and subsequently the full 70mm with a CJS set up. You want heat? Try that bastard. Used to burn my right calf that fucker did. TPS reset is easy if you get a copy of DucatiDiag, register it and plug it in. CAREFUL WITH ECU LEAD POLARITY. Check it first. @chrisw is your man here, hes helped me umpteen times and deserves a knighthood. He can also flash your ecu to remove exv valve. All at very reasonable prices and very quick turnover.
Thanks mate, unfortunately i've done all that previously. EXV is gone and error light from the dash has gone due to the correct map. I'm using Tune ECU as only have Macs and bought a cheap Android tablet to use it, might have to try and borrow a PC from someone and use DD i think, probably the first step to take.
I too have only macs, so I ponced a 100yr old lappie from work and use that in garage. You can buy all you need here. I have no experience with tune ecu. DD works a treat. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281148566309?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261596861547?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT http://jpdiag.xooit.eu/t1893-Getting-Started-with-Ducatidiag.htm
No, cable @chrisw I tried it with Parralels @JH_1986 but no joy connecting (with Tune ECU). I'll try it with DD today if you say it works. Thanks.
I use VMWare. When I plug in, it asks me if I want to connect to Mac or Windows. Select Windows and off I go.
So i presume i need a copy of a Windows OS on my Mac. Does VMW just need to see the Setup exe and go from there? Using VMWare or anything with a sniff of Windows instantly reminds me why i hate Windows so much. I've used OSX since 9 (20 years maybe) but put me infront of a PC and it's like i'm a caveman discovering an abacus for the first time.
Agreed on the Windows front. VMWare will basically corner off a bit of your hard drive space (you decide how much) and you run it through the normal Windows setup. I've used one of our work Windows 10 licences. If it's just for diag software, I'd just grab an old version of Windows (7 maybe?) from tinterweb (eBay or other means).
Found Win 7 and got it running on VM Ware. Then it seems Ducati Diag is no more! After a bit of Googling i found Guzzi diag which actually has an OSX version. Tried that and the Windows version and both tell me the ignition is off on the bike after i turn it on when prompted to do so. Wonder if i have a dodgy cable or ECU? I have another ECU so going to try that now, and the blue led ignites on the first section of the cable, if that means anything (i suppose just signifies there is power to it).
Have ordered the lead again that bootsam linked to to rule that out. Is there an adaptor out there that allows you to connect to an ecu not on a bike?
For off-bike work you need to build a connector. I wrote some articles about this on the JPDiag Forum.
