1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

1991 900ss Refurb.

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by portboy, Nov 19, 2019.

  1. Thanks bud, Clutch it is i am doing. :upyeah:
     
  2. Similar process if you want to flush it, and/or fill from the bleed nipple with a syringe (and turn the front wheel the other way).
     
  3. Back to the drawing board the new kit fitted, pissing fluid through the push rod. The bore looked in good condition. I may have nicked the main seal, at nearly £30 a pop i am loathed to try another. I am tempted to try the chinese copies Brake and clutch less than £30, any thoughts ? It would mean choke operation would have to be changed as it fitted to the reservoir. Bummer all for 13mm rubber seal.
     
  4. Have you got a KTM dealer nearby? Many Brembo brake and clutch parts are on KTM......much lower cost.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Useful Useful x 1
  5. And Gutzibits - I got parts from them for pennies for Brembo
     
    • Useful Useful x 4
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. Sorted the hydraulic clutch master, why was the main body pissing fluid , the main seal was fitted ass about face, whatta nob , yes me ......
     
    • Funny Funny x 3
    • Like Like x 2
    • Face Palm Face Palm x 2
  7. but you got there :upyeah:
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  8. Pulled the timing belt covers off lined up the dots , took the tensioner off for easy action. I cant remove the horizontal belt it's hampered by shields on the crank and cam wheels, the idler roller i think needs to come off but is fvcking not playing ball two flats for a 10mm open end spanner, adjustable wrench, molegrips and can get about a 1/4 turn then locks up. I concerned that i am going fvck the thread it's in the base of the front cylinder.

    P1040133.JPG
     
  9. Those idlers are a pain in the butt. If it moves then great, I would use some heat and work it backwards and forwards. Mine had loads of thread lock on them. If you need to replace them, you can get them for about 40 quid each. Ducati want 70!

    Do you have to remove them though?
     
  10. Someone....can't recall who.....made up new ones using a pair of bearings.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  11. It seems the only way even when the idler is good, the belt will not clear the side plates for removal and there is a bit of deflection caused by the small idler. I could cut the belt off but i am going to face the same problem when trying to re-fit new belts ?
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  12. I must say I've never had to remove the idler to remove or install belts on my Dukes.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. me neither, so we all learnt "the knack" but (so far) no-one's managed to describe this on here and I can't remember - someone needs to pass this on to Tony/portboy. :upyeah: I might have a look at a few YouTube guides.
     
    • Like Like x 4
  14. Good man Chris.
     
  15. The workshop manual states remove the 'movable stretcher' and it is recommended to remove the 'steady stretcher' as well with a suitable wrench, to make the belt removable easier.
     
  16. One belt fitted, IMO there is no way of removing the belts without removing both idlers for each belt. As i i wasn't going to unnecessarily create more problems so i removed the outer shields from both cam wheels and the crankshaft wheel, they are thin and just pressed onto a spigot end. Belt slips on a treat.

    P1040134.JPG

    P1040135.JPG
     
    • Like Like x 2
Do Not Sell My Personal Information