There is always something going wrong to catch you out, great fun running out of fuel because the fuel warning light doesn't come on ha ha, lucky the nearest house had some mower fuel to get me going! Anyway started by checking the bulb which is ok. However the crazy fragile bulb holder (well a couple of them actually) has a plastic lug missing so its loose fitting onto the circuit board. Can you get replacement bulb holders? Have taken the tank off and unscrewed the sensor to do a visual check and to check wiring connected ok, all looks fine. I am not very handy with a multi meter, any tips on what I should be looking for (have checked fuses, visually ok). Electrics gives me the willies.
Can’t help much with the electrics question, it’s something to do with magic but that’s all I know about it, however it’s a brave man that trusts that light, most owners use the trip meter, every time mine hits 100 miles I fill up again.
The fuel sensors, particularly the earlier ones are renowned for their failure. The later replacement ones are a bit better - if you can find one. However, it only takes the tiniest bit of crap in the tank to cause them to stick making the switch open or closed. I have wasted some time on taking the sensors out, cleaning them, re-assembling so they work - for about two weeks until they stick again. I also think the actual contacts must somehow become buggered, but I haven't investigated the actual switch. In the end I gave up and used the trip meter so I filled up every 100 - 120 miles. After all, you can't see the silly damn light in bright sunlight anyway.
Ok thanks, for the small amount of use the bike gets, and looking at the prices of replacement sensors, I can learn to live without it. I will try to get replacement bulb holders though as they are so flimsy.
Well here's a thing. I've had the bike 8 years and only just noticed I can't find a way to reset my trip meter. No knob! Does that mean I have the L version and not the GL......
Ah well yes many thanks, did wonder what that was for as mine is rusted solid and never worked. Now I have the dash in pieces I have soaked it in penetrating fluid and will leave it for a few days - time for tea!
And you will find the trip cable isn't the problem, but the actual knob which has rusted....the cable doesn't have an outer cable other than a plastic sleeve. Also watch out for the speedo end of the trip cable - some had a tiny screw holding it and some had a tiny R-clip.
ah ok thanks for that - which way does the knob turn to reset? I don't want to force it the wrong way and risk breaking it off!
When fitted, clockwise; when not fitted, both ways - it is the actual trip meter that prevents it turning anti-clockwise.
Still struggling with this. I have disconnected the cable from the trip meter. I can turn the free end of the trip meter, no problem all ok. I can twist the knob freely left and right but only for a short distance - because the cable is so stiff and bent in the arc between the knob and the trip it won't twist freely without hitting the lamp surround etc. Am I missing something, is the metal part of the cable supposed to twist inside a sleeve - or is my cable kind of knackered because it hasn't been used and its hardened off?
You may be right about the cable having gone hard (non-flexy). Can you get the plastic sleeve off easily? (I can't recall if something would prevent it). You can always cut it off and replace with heat shrink. Soak the cable in diesel or a suitable penetrating oil for a few days. I use Break Free CLP because it doesn't evaporate like Plus-Gas and it is a rust preventer as well. AL
Can you nut undo the nut holding the whole thing on the dash? It is the serrated / milled thing around the knob seen from the top. On the underside of the dash, it is just plain (like a washer) but part of the threaded body which the nut thingy screws onto.
ok will try, probably at the weekend. I have managed to get hold of some OEM bulb holders from StarTwin in Holland
