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1098 48 Tooth Clutch Replacement Advice Appreciated

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by Old Jock, Aug 11, 2018.

  1. Hi

    I'm not at the stage I need to do this yet but was wanting get my Ducks (sic) lined up for when the time comes, bike is a 1098S. Currently the bike is running the factory clutch (not a slipper)

    I think STM do a 48 tooth basket and plates and that's the way I was planning to go. If anybody knows other suppliers or recommends summit else please chime in.

    I DON'T want a slipper and the plan would be to replace the basket and plates

    Do I need a new pressure plate?

    As you can see I'm a dummy when it comes to this sort of stuff

    John
     
  2. Why?
    The standard clutch can be made to work beautifully.
    I wish the clutch in my 320d worked as well as my Ducati dry clutch.
     
  3. Not sure why Jock. If not slipper. Is it noise? If so the only reliable method of attenuation is to run the oem clutch cover, which is what I did. Despite my 48t slipper.

    Pretty sure the oem pressure plate can be retained.

    EVR/STM etc do a 48t basket, You can buy either at HM Racing, just the basket on its own.
     
  4. Ok to explain, I'm not replacing right now but the bite point is getting nearer to the beginning of pulling in the lever, so a new clutch is my future just when is the question

    Why I'm thinking of the 48 tooth, from what I've read, the basket and plates get an easier time of it and are not battered to death so much, so if I'm replacing why not go the extra mile and get something that will last a while longer

    Noise isn't an issue for me Boots & the OEM clutch is fine as far as it goes. It's not an effort to improve rideability or noise just a way of extending component life really

    I seem to remember you stated that the 48 tooth is a little quieter less of clatter more of tinkle Boots but either way I quite like a bit of clutch noise action

    John
     
  5. Yes, it is a tad quiter. But its more the note to me. It sounds more of an organised caribbean steel drum band than a tin man falling down the stairs. Try sigma too. I believe you can buy the outer separately from them.

    I always ran the oem cover on my 1198. a) to dampen the noise and b) it makes a good and cheap sacrificial crash bung.
     
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  6. I just fitted the EVR 48 tooth basket and plates to my 888(didn't want slipper) 888 doesn't need it on road, nicely made stuff, I only fitted it to quieting it down which it done massively, Like you I didn't want a slipper but on my SFS ive the full Dp slipper(not 48 tooth) which I think is a cracking mod,
     
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  7. Not meaning to be rude, but have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulics??? On my 1198S, every so often the bite point moves towards the bar; bleeding the system fixes (it until next time!). Interestingly, there appears to be air at the master cylinder end of the system, none at the (OEM) slave cylinder.

    As an aside, if anyone has any ideas why this happens please post...
     
  8. No offense taken this is most definitely wear not air, I usually replace the fluid every 2-3 years and bleed the bayjaysus out it.

    Although the fluid gets lighter the bite point is always the same.

    Thanks anyway
     
  9. 48T is a great upgrade. Quieter, lasts longer and I've found a better action. EVR is a decent bit of kit, there's usually a good deal to be had on fleabay from a UK seller. Sigma do the same basket and plate kit. A little bit more, but support is there as are the plates. STM as well. Only thing to watch is the tooth profile.... I think, EVR use a rounded tooth, whereas STM and Sigma use a square. They are interchangeable, but if the EVR is rounded, then you need to use their plate kits.
     
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  10. OK, just a thought!

    @nelly - any idea why I keep getting air in the system???

    Thanks
     
  11. Poor OEM master cylinders. My 1098S used to suffer too. My current 1299S has this problem.
     
  12. A must mod on sny dry clutch duke in my opinion.
    I put a 48t evr on my hyper evo, basket & plates 25k miles ago, should have cleaned it out really, but haven't... I did have to add 1mm spacers under springs (only use 4) to compensate for stack wear as it appeared to be slipping a tad. Compare that to the std clutch.
     
  13. I'm not diagreeing with this, however, what causes the bite point to be at the beginning of pulling in the lever? Why will a replacement clutch fix this? My 1098 is the same, which i dislike, my 996 bite point is nearer the middle of the lever travel.
     
  14. This is the kit I fitted 32457514_10213145375408311_8667424769911554048_n.jpg
     
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  15. I believe @Derek got something like 35,000 miles out of his standard clutch with a minor modification... ;)
     
  16. I cannot really say for the Ducatis but Guzzis are what I know and as the clutch wears the lever bite moves forward. That may be the reason or it could be air but I'm not having that problem with mine (yet)

    I won't put in a new clutch until the OEM starts to slip but I'm just thinking ahead and I'll probably purchase one soon and keep it for the day it happens

    Thank you all for the responses so far, much appreciated

    John
     
  17. Iv run a 48t STM for the past 2k miles and its perfect. With an OEM cover the noise is much 'friendlier'. Clutch action is light and smooth, really pleased with it.

    I went 48t purely because it has much better service life and been very happy with.

    I also have the STM slipper and its delightful.
     
  18. Derek has demonstrated that an OEM clutch can have a long service life and make a friendlier noise, all at very low cost.
    I have taken it a step or two further and have a light, smooth action as well, again at very low cost.
     
  19. @Old rider What are these modifications of which you speak?

    I seem to remember in the mists of time a Lithium grease mod for the plates, but I didn't fancy that

    John
     
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