Thanks, although she is only a little 'un compared to a 999. The air filter screws all went with quite a crack when they come undone so have to assume it has been a while since they were last undone. My rad hoses are the "mark 2" type from your post with the 2 short lengths only. The interweb says they are 24ID x 32OD. Inevitably stock silicone hose sizes are 25 ID not 24. The factory stuff is only buttons for these though.
I have a similar problem on a 999. I found oil around the H Cyl spark plug. I found this before it had spread further. Looking at this image, the tube, which is part of assy 1, seemed to be the culprit. The manual said to NEVER remove this and so I didn't. I replaced the cover gasket. I'll have to wait a couple of months before I can properly test this. Maybe mine is in the early stages of this issue. In my image, the shiny area below the plug is oil!
Can't find industrial replacement for these washers (bonded nitrile lower/ steel upper face), looks like i need genuine. 6 washers @ £8 each + delivery and 2 week leadtime, that's a decent coin for a few washers! They seem to be a sensible design (metal face to allow bolt to turn without snagging and bundling up washer) but would have been better if they existed elsewhere. Based on comments above, people are having success with a plain sealing washer , was looking at nitrile as it is "A" for compatibility with engine oil, is that correct. I have a week or so until cam cover is bac from powder coaters
The valve train cover/cylinder head gasket also commonly leaks from the centre O part around the spark plug channel which allows oil to collect around the plug. Remove it, clean it, apply a smear of ThreeBond or similar RTV sealant to both sides and it will fix it.
Belts done and tensioned. Exact fit battery cables going in. Quick before and after images on the cam cover and various seals. Cam cover nuts treated with phosphoric acid solution to derust New plugs once the cam cover is on. Oil and oil filter once i have finished potentially getting crap in the engine Reassemble, just need air filters
This bundle of work done for the minute: California Cycleworks tensioned to their spec of 99Hz New SKF idler bearings New belt cover bolts as the old ones were nasty Checked cam alignment with a straight edge across cam ends at TDC for each cylinder to make sure nothing weird. Will probably get the right tool for next time. New NGK plugs New horizontal cam cover sealing washers and gasket Repowder coated cam cover Oil and filter and mesh screen New ram air filter foam Most fastenings soaked in phosphoric acid to remove rust Exact fit start cable kit Deep clean of oil off engine etc from previous leak Replaced various coolant hoses New stainless jubilee clips New G12+ pink coolant Put off for another time: Front brake "bridge" hose is routed incorrectly, needs moving ASAP Fuel filter delayed until tank is emptier Desmo check not due yet but will do next time it is not due to be used for a while, will be more comfortable next time as i am more familiar with bike Engine side covers to come off and re powder coated New "glass" for rev counter if i can find some cheap clocks to steal glass / screen from Definitely not the hardest bike to work on once you get your eye in with it. The mechanical stuff took less time than expected but i found the exact fit cable kit ridiculously fiddly to get to fit nicely
I am debating black wheels and black side blades currently. Maybe just wrap the blades so it is reversible
My "small shakedown ride" ended up being 250 mile round trip Bedford to Hereford and back in the rain, mud, cold and dark over 7 hours with my other half on her bike. It all seems to have behaved so i am going to count that as a win! Will take bodywork off at some point to check oil leak situation. Observations from ride: Surprisingly comfortable over distance. Main beam is utter Sh!te, will be changing bulb and probably modding them so dip and main come on together. Economy was around 43-46 mpg (uk). Filled up at 11.2 litres (113 miles) and then 13.4 litres (128 miles), trying to get confident in range to empty. Need to do the electronic calibration on TPS and balance throttle bodies, idle is a bit low so might as well do the set Need to check if 68C engine temp is about right as that is where it sits on a normal run (10 degrees air temp give or take). I have a list of things that are wobbling (left mirror, right rear indicator, front parking light) that need addressing once i have worked out what is wrong with each. Found a false neutral towards the top of the gearbox at one point that confused me as i thought the clutch had let go initially!
