Two things you can do; 1. Check the continuity of the grey/blue wire between pin 38 of the black ECU connector and the coil connector with a multimeter set to the 200Ω range. It should read almost zero Ω. With the meter connected flex the wire at as many points as possible along its length watching for changes in the meter reading. If it changes, particularly by a large amount then there is a break or partial break in the wire. 2. Arrange to borrow a known good ECU. This will need to be a DP or virgin ECU or one in which the immobilser function has been disabled. @chrisw is your man to help here.
Thanks again Derek. I have got the ECU off and in hand,the connector blocks have very small holes for the pins to pass through,not sure my multimeter points are small enough to get in there? can i lift off the back of those connectors and get at the wiring that way? Chrisw is helping with the ECU so i am sure that there is a way to get to the bottom of this,i will go and try what you suggested.
The connector can be dismantled. The plastic clip can be removed from its pivot points then back can be slid off after removing the textile insulating tape but a straightened out paperclip will fit into the tiny holes and make contact. Chris will sort you out with the ECU
On the case. Should have some pins suitable for the ECU connector so I will make some probes to save you taking the connector apart. The pin outs are here https://jpdiag.xooit.eu/t1342-Pinouts-for-IAW59M-and-IAW5AM.htm Zundung is coil.
To go back to basics, when you test for continuity with a meter, set it to ohms and touch the probes together. The display should rapidly count down to zero. Try the same with a length of wire and you should get a similar result but there will be some resistance, so not quite zero. If the numbers are big, then you have a problem.
Well,the ECU arrived today from ChrisW,and i spent a bit of time fitting it all back in place,but unbelievably it WORKS! what a pain in the ass this whole thing has been,but now i know a lot more about my Bike than i did before and i am not so intimidated by that box of nasty wires hanging out all over the place.I will get a new set of self tappers for that heat shield and a new neutral cable for the battery,tuck everything in a bit better.I managed to break the plastic lug on the bottom of the fairing along the way so drilled a 6mm hole and will use a cable tie to bring the two pieces together.She is still dirty after that original ride in the wet weeks ago now,so she gets a clean and polish tomorrow and perhaps a little run to the 'shops' seeing as i have not been out at all. Huge thanks to all of you who had the patience to put up with my incompetence and bumbling,especially to the two Chris's on here, both of whom have been enormously helpful,Cheers!!!
Certainly looks like a coil driver failure. New ECU is an IAW5AM off an 848 so should be more reliable. Big up to Royal Mail who have maintained their delivery standards through recent problems.
Cable tie seems a bit gash, there has to be a better solution than that, surely. Iirc, my SS had a simple bracket inside the fairing with a hole at each end and corresponding holes in the fairing. Also, I recommend a full starting circuit cable kit from @Exige on here. It will make a huge difference.
Snapped mine on the 999. I epoxied a piece of aluminium over the break. Drilled it and fitted a brand new wellnut. Had to use a longer bolt to compress the wellnut but after that the original bolt could reach the threads.
did something similar here,i used the hole to set the aluminium plate in place and a 6mm bolt and nuts,works a treat.ECU is good but ChrisW will re map it for the termi's,had a run out and it was very sputtery under 4k,a lumpy throttle mid corner is a bit worrying,but it should all go back to right again.Old Rider..getting the self tappers for that heat shield whilst i am there.
