Ah i Should of know that really:-/ I'm assuming if a fan is fouled ie. a small stone stopping the fan from spinning freely it would cause an over current fault as the fan needs to draw more current to start and run. After test ride I've still got the primary coil B fault so I'm guessing that's a new coil pack? Will that throw up the engine management light ?
There's also a fuse on these fans as well. If it blows you get a MIL on the dash. try swapping the coils over. If the fault code changes to A then you will confirm a coil fault
Right, after some more searching about and basically stripping most of the cabling out checking everything I've finally come down to the coil packs I can't seem to find reference anywhere detailing which coil is A and which is B Any ideas ?
Well 6 weeks and plenty of grief I've still not got to the bottom of the misfire and engine management light. The story!! Precious owner changed the plugs before I bought the bike to try getting rid of the miss and engine management light. I changed all the relays as described twice. Changed the coil packs around and replaced one. Still have misfire between 2800 and 3500 rpm flat throttle. When it misses the engine management light comes on however there is no change in performance. If I'm riding In clear conditions and always on and off the throttle it's fine but if I'm in traffic trying to maintain speed at this rev range is misses, feels awful and engine management light comes on! Hooking up to Ducati diag the only error is on coil pack B primary circuit failure. At my wits end now really don't know what else to do.
mmmh. I would check the primary wiring to the coil pack. I'm a sparky, and on numerous occasions I find a wire that looks 100% o.k . Only when I have stripped off some insulation from a suspect wire as a last resort do I find that the wire has broken completely and is only being held together by the plastic sheathing. If you have a circuit tester or ohmmeter check out the continuity of the relevant wiring and have a really close look at connector condition.
Distance diagnosis is not easy. The coils are triggered by the ECU. Your MIL fault codes suggests 'coil B' which is the vertical cylinder. The trigger comes from Pin 10 of the Engine side of the ECU. The engine side is the one with the black ECU connector (you have to remove them to see the colour of the base, engine = black, body = grey). I wonder if you have a break in the cable. On my 1198 the wire to Pin 10 is Grey/Green (Gr/G) and goes to Pin 3 of the coil connector. As you have swapped coils you will know the coil connector is attached to the diagonal frame rail next to the vertical cylinder on the left side (battery) of the bike. If you use a meter on diode mode you can check the continuity of the wire to pin 10. Try moving it about to see if you can get it to break continuity. If it is a break then I don't know how easy a rewire would be to do.
I've researched so much into this and think I'm missing something very simple. There is no breakdown at any other rev range, it should at least cough or suffer power loss at some point but it doesn't, it's at the exact same range every time and at constant revs. What do we think about plug gap? I know there factory set but for what, Ducati are not the only vehicles to use these plugs, experience tells me plug gaps are important for a clean spark.
If you want to eliminate the ECU then I can loan you one to try Just PM me your address details. All I ask is that you pick up the P&P
