Penetrating oil, heat and knock it both ways, a couple of mm movement each way and just keep going, wind the nut out to the end of the treads to help to prevent crushing the end. It took me a few days on and off the first time I did mine, I can almost push it out now. Steve
Heat where? And what with, a blow torch? I suspect mine will be the same when I come to remove it from my 20yr old 748 for the first time next week . But I have been bathing it in XCP for the past few weeks. Both sides.
I had this on my 1st 916. It was a pig of a job to remove the bolt. IIRC, it was penetrating oil, heat, a big drift and a lot of patience. I think it was only really stuck at the LHS of the swing arm and once I got it moving, it came out with little fuss, it was just getting the thing to budge. I sanded it smooth and liberally applied copper grease when I refitted it.
As above with a good penetrating oil like pb blaster - keep applying over time and leave it for a while if not in a rush An impact gun can get it turning and then you can use the drift
You could always support the 'free' End of the frame i.e.opposite to the side you are hitting. I use a piece of 4x4 wood supported against a wall. Don't get carried away though, if it moves a little use some penetrating fluid and knock it back again, and so on. WD 40 isn't much use btw.
Cheers guys. I’m gonna try the last method suggested - diving up a support bar from the frame recess to a wall so that the bike is completely rigid at the point I am using the drift, keeping the energy transfer focussed. I was really worried about applying heat to the engine casing as I thought the amount required may be damaging ??
The bolt usually ceases in the top hat bronze bushes not the engine casings, the top hat looks like a spacer between the swing arm and the engine, , this is where the heat needs to be aimed NOT the engine case, the top hat bush goes into the swing arm bearings, I was lucky mine was stuck on the chain side only. Good luck. Steve
Be careful with the amount of force used, on rare occasions it has been known to crack the engine casings. Steve
This might help you understand the build of the swing arm bushings, bush number 33 and 34 is where they generally stick.
To all who are following this thread, what’s the best thing to use to drift them out please? I’d lay money mine’ll be stuck when I get to them.
My experience was to start with the end bolt left in but undone half way to prevent damage to the threads, then hit it back and forth until I got movement, once you start to get more movement the bolt has to come out and a drift used exactly the same outside diameter as the main swing arm bolt bolt to prevent any burring. There is a special drift available at a cost.
I remember seeing on here a garden wall getting knocked over by removing the pivot bolt with a big hammer and an hyd jack.
I think this is it, post number 101. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/seized-748.10521/page-11 Steve
An afternoon well spent here. I’ve attached photos of the machined frame support (29mm). That was braced at an angle against concrete. The next is of the machined drift. This was the exact dimensions of the internal and external diameters of the spindle (12&19mm) Good dose of freeze spray immediately before and out it came easily. I’ve got no use for the tools beyond today and they are the property of my engineer friend so if anyone wants them for this job, they can be bought for £50 (pick up in South Wales) or for whatever the quote is for couriering
