Dears, 998S with full termis on and ecu to match, 32.000kms and so far so good. Changed the lamps to same halogen type H1 and H3 but 30% brighter. And indeed new lamps were better and could finally see when riding at night. But it started farting and misfiring at random with the needles dancing around every time I switched on the lights. There is also a light instant flicker of light on the dash as soon as I switch on lights. If u keep the throttle open it comes back but not sure what is going on. So far I changed rpm sensor, the rectifier but still does it. If I ride with no lights the popping is reduced and finally stops. Until I switch on lights again. I replaced lamps with old ones but still problem persists. Battery is new and also relays changed. Has anyone had the same issue? Many thanks Philip
I’d say you have trapped a wire somewhere around the headlight and it’s occasionally earthing out causing the misfire
Wire not connected properly. Check all the connectors again... take apart... spray with contact cleaner/lubricant and put back. Are the earth and power leads all good on the battery.
It will be a faulty/corroded connection within the loom multi-plug which sits under the tank and is cable-tied to the frame. Unscrew the two halves of the plug and look for the offending pin. It will probably be no.8. Take each half out carefully, clean it and re-assemble with a bit of copper grease. That should solve it!
Most likely you have disturbed the wiring as suggested already. You will need to check the security and cleanliness of the headstock connectors and cables back to the round connector under the front right hand side of the tank. Do not ignore the earth paths from the headstock loom and look for any burning on the contacts in the round plug (I think it is pin T Joe)
i recon it was another one of those, "i recently did this to my bike, and now this doesn't work" threads...
Thank you to all for comments. No They are appreciated indeed. Just came back to answer now. I will address each one of the pointers thanks The original bulbs are in, yes. All relays were replaced and connectors being checked now. The strange things we see are the following: Even now (with rpm sensor changed and rectifier) if you press the horn button with the bike engine off (switch on) the rev needle moves up. With the high beam on engine on the temperature Theneedle moves by 5C (instead of showing..85c shows 90+c). If you switch off then back to normal. Diagnostic software still shows timing/rpm sensor as problematic and same for the coils. I will try to attach the photo. We found one fuse (7.5A lights) hot but not melted. I ll keep all posted but do give some time as
You need a proper auto electrician or electronics engineer not a grease monkey! Someone who understands electricity.
We decided we change the ecu with a similar one and take it from there. Reason being the diagnostics as all coils, rpm sensor and dash are controlled by ecu. If ecu is fine then we check wiring. It seems to be 2 different issues with the lamps and the ecu (?). And yes lamps although 12V 55W and same type as oem must have drawn more current. Now if it is the ecu unless there is no element inside burnt I guess could be flashed.. or not. We ll see. Thanks all for time, appreciated Ph
