OK. I'm going to give advice in public and be damned / ridiculed. CTFY....The bit in Red. Eurovent is the de facto EU tester and and most machines are rated by them (EU). You should be able to ascertain the output power and effective efficiency for a given temperature from the manufacturers data. Be aware that the published EER or COP changes for a given inside (rejected) and outside (absorbed) temperature. The lower the outside temperature the less heat can be extracted for a given work done. The machine has to work harder, use more power, so the's numbers drop. Further the lower your target inside temperature the higher the efficiency (for HEATING). E.g. air to air heating. Room target temperature of 19°C would need the refrigerant to reach 43°C to allow reasonable heat transfer. Room target temperature of 23°C would need the refigerant to reach 51°C to allow reasonable heat transfer. The outdoor compressor would not need to work so hard in the first example. COP or coefficient of performance are standardised figures to allow buyers to compare on a like for like across models or brands. It is impossible to get out less heat power than you put in, physics prevents this. Note most of the electricity used generates he and that in turn is added to that collected from outside. EeR is used in the same way, for comparisons. COP & EER COP – the ratio that measures the energy efficiency of the HEATING performance. EER – the ratio that measure the energy efficiency of the COOLING performance. Both ratios are determined by the amount of heating and cooling generated by the air conditioning compared with the 1kW of electricity it consumes. So, an air conditioner that generates 3.6kW of heating when using 1kW is say to have a COP of 3.6. Therefore the air conditioning that generates most heating out of 1kW is the most efficient, hence the higher the COP the more efficient is the air conditioning. Likewise, an air conditioner that generates 3.6kW of cooling when using 1kW is say to have an EER of 3.6. How to compare products Compare the COP and EER ratios of products with the same output to determine which are more energy efficient. For example, compare 2 air conditioning unit both with 3.5kW (12000 BTU) power output, the one with the higher COP and EER is more energy efficient.
The forum limits the number of participants to six for a PM group (private conversation). For this reason I'll ask and answer in this thread. Please feel free to PM me with anything you may wish to discuss off air. Q. Mr Hyperdildo do you know the kW or BTU rating of your current oil burner? Q. Does it keep you toasty, even on the oldest of winter days? Q. Is it running flat out in deepest winter or 50%? Q. I ASSUME the underfloor heating is water based, heated by the oil furnace? Q. Would you say the radiators are over or undersized? Air to water heat pumps have come a long way in the last 30 years and leaps in the last 10. Daikin Altherma and Mitsubushi electrics Ecodan are both well established / respected air to water systems in the uk. We are factory trained on both, albeit it's not our main trade. Replacing Oil or Coal fired furnaces with these sort of systems is considered good practice, where you are off grid (gas). I'd never council removing a recent "on grid" gas fired heating/hot water system with anything refrigerant based. The pay back times are too long. If you are off grid or upgrading your existing hot water / heating system then your should consider all your options. NEVER install direct electric heating or underfloor heating, although it may appear cheap, capital cost of installation. The running costs are high. For every £1 you spend on direct electric heating (including hot water) you get £1 worth of heat, say 7kW/h @ £0.145 per kW/h. If you put that £1 of electric through a heat pump you'll get 4 or 5 times as much, so 35kW/h for your £1. Heat pumps are more expensive to buy than a gas boiler and typically cost twice as much to install , so you have to look at your return on capital investment. The refunds and feed in tariffs for heat pumps are all gone for England and I'm not aware of any plans to bring them back. Your whole install will attract 5% VAT, so long as the equipment is on the ECA scheme. CO2 based heat pumps have the highest COPs, but are expensive. Microgeneration may be an option for some, making your own power and heat.
Environmental impact studies required by planning make boreholes too expensive in the UK. Unless you have easy access to a back hoe or are already digging up the paddocks then ground source is again just too expensive here. The best sort of ground sourced is a river..... but again you need impact studies... or supposed to have
This hasn't been thought through properly. You'll need deep ground sourced on new estates or we are going to have fields of permafrost. There isn't enough National Grid or infrastructure for this, not to mention electric Vehicles. We should plan new estates better, with solar, wind and heat pumps.... but don't bin good gas condenser boilers* until we are ready. *I do not install or repair any gas boilers, nor do I hate lithium batteries!
Worcesterbosch or like condensing gas boiler , get certified install and 10 year warranty. Fit a mains booster pump to help with flow, if required. https://www.pumpsalesdirect.co.uk/s...iboiler-pressure-booster-pump-240v-46574.html
Upgrade the gas boiler to a modern condenser type, yours would be a system boiler. Make sure you get a 10 year warranty and a good make. Power flush the old pipes and radiators, fitting new TRV valves everywhere. Don't get talked into a combination boiler.... new thread?
Having just visited the Dali museum I love the idea of a painting of the Desmo mechanism for my palace/castle. Having just 6 Ducati makes me a pauper on this forum. Were you really born in the 90's, you both sound a lot older on here? No Feed in tarrifs for heat pumps nor any plans for England. Economy 7 was really for the hot brick electric radiators. ... it's not been cost effective since then, unless you have a swimming pool. Some interesting stuff at the low end, bedsits etc for combined hot water for a sink and AC coming out of Italy. Go with an air to water (32°C) and underfloor heating (or other lower temperature emitters*), then a second system (multi air to air) for bedrooms, living rooms etc. But only if you want or need cooling. * heated skirting boards have been my favourite lately.
do heated skirting boards actually work? I always thought they were a bit gimmicky. 6 Ducati's!! Goddamit Gump You're a Goddam Millionaire!! As you got only 6 does that mean you've still got a roof? Me and the Cream have to slum it with oriental padding of questionable vintage, and we're younger than we look being that 90% of our bodies are less than 10 years old. Its why we find farting funny. The solar installer told me to go single rate and I've not regretted it. The only time I'll go back to economy7 will be if I ever install a powerwall. I was looking at Daikin stuff a while back - cooling in summer would be very helpful as the house is one big fryer in summer. I was hoping that at the very least you could buy one of those portable aircon units you can get in the far east and the US that just sit in your window opening over here, rather than the box with the donkey dick hanging out of your window. When you were in the Dali Museum did you meet the lama?
Hi air con and thanks for the mass of replies Kw 21.5. btu is 73400. It’s a grant vortex boiler. I would say it runs pretty hard and gets the house toasty but as soon as someone opens a door it’s cold again in the hallway. The radiators looks just right for the property they are lovely and warm and well balanced. The underfloor is water based yes and running from same boiler, constantly kept at 18.3 degrees which is nice. I would say the boiler has a little left in reserve apart from the very cold days. thank you once again for taking time to explain. Cheers
aircon i should have used the word expected If you put that £1 of electric through a heat pump you'll get 4 or 5 times as much, so 35kW/h for your £1. in idea conditions,which are not normally found when its -6 outside and you want to heat to 20 c
Can you clarify for my what I think is correct.. that cop is basically the number of times greater kw it makes over what it takes to make it so if 1kw in to run and 4 kw out that’s a cop of 4. Cheers
It comes from being poor as a kid and have book a bath many days in advance, having two sisters and two brothers didn't help. Now I love the security of 250l of hot water, especially with three power showers and circulated hot water. Our house and layout doesn't lend itself to a combination boiler. Many who are convinced to switch from a system boiler have regrets later. Not enough flow to the shower, having to upgrade the gas supply to the boiler (extra cost not factored in at the beginning) and noise have all being discussed in our pub. System boilers are traditional / historic and use a tank of stored hot water heated at a slow pace (compared to combi's). Combination boilers make hot as you need it, but sometimes not at a flow rate that you'd like. Many end up fitting an electric power shower.
Absolutely correct. If you edit your post I'll change mine. It is critical to design your system for the range of temperatures your home may expect..... more to follow.
Hyper, as you say you have land as well as privacy, would not a estimation on a change to solar power be within your mix of alternatives? Also, is it listed?
Yes it’s listed. I have a fair bit of land but it’s it’s a protected area so the council will not allow it I don’t think
Might be worth having an informal chat with them? Sometimes I've found when generally asking questions of them they can be helpful, even more so in this eco age where you might be suggesting a change to renewables and away from fossil. I know what you mean about oil, some days it felt like I was a stockbroker looking at oil prices to get the best deal for the 2500 litre tank.
