I too have used copperslip for many years (30+) in all sorts of applications without problem despite having seen contrary advice from others. The point often ignored is that a galvanic reaction cannot take place without an electrolyte being present and copperslip is not. A typical application is spark plug threads i.e. bright zinc plating of the plug thread into aly heads. For extreme heat applications (e.g. alloy finned exhaust nut onto cast iron exhaust stub on BMW airheads etc) I use castrol's optimol TA anti-seize grease. hope this helps
I use PB (Baumann) Swiss Tools allen keys and Beta T-handle keys. I have found these to be the best and Snap-On allens very poor.
I just bought some of these http://toolstoday.co.uk/product/588...and-ball-end-key-set-08375-thex-sg-8?cat=2214 I got spanners that must be over 20 years old, well used and still work that were given to me when I was a lad
For winding the bolt in, I always use Bondhus keys- they are the rolls royce of allen keys, and I've got a set of teng to torque up with. Never underestimate your cheap and cheerful socket sets with cheap allens and torque bits, I always buy these quid bargains as they are idea for hammering into rounded off bolts and nuts in order to get them off. Always torque your allen keys, as tight is tight and too tight is snapped mentality doesn't work with allen keys. Also, if the key is a little sloppy in the head, don't be afraid to lump it with a hammer and a punch in a bid to shrink the head a little, this may make the difference in it rounding off - but ideally a good quality key will sit really snugly in the hex.
Here is a link to the PB allen keys. £44 a set. Had them over 10 years and use them every day. PB Swiss Tools Metric KEY L-WRENCHES I also have short ones and angle headed ones with long handles for large machine panels or fork yokes. PB Swiss Tools Metric Angled KEY L-WRENCHES
Any tips on how to get broken Allen key tips out of bolt heads? I have the remains of a ( not cheap ) Allen key broken off in the bolt that holds the suspension linkage to the swinging arm on my M600 - short of grinding the head of the bolt off I can't see any way of getting it out - apologies for going slightly "off thread"...
One possibility is with an electric welder. The theory is to try to strike an arc and get the electrode to stick on the broken bit which you can then tug. That said, it's tricky to do, as the bolt head's internal hex' has almost definitely been distorted by the twisting of the Allen key but it is possible!
i didn't expect such a lengthy discussion on Allen keys..!! LOL but many thanks for the info, I have invested in some Teng from Amazon which should be at my house in a day or so. Just in time as I return from Dubai, I am, sending this from the Ducati Cafe no less.....and the weather? well its a little warmer than the UK right now at around oooohhh 38 degress!!!! back to the harsh reality of cold blighty tomorrow....
oh the next question now is how the hell do i remove very stubborn worn difficult to reach bolts? I have a full monty pro bolt engine set and there are a few little buggers that just wont shift or have bloody worn out.... to be expected on a 1999 bike I guess....but desperately want to give her some extra TLC and ensure that all nuts and bolts are shinny and removable when need arises.
Usually people use the ball-end (not bell) of an allen key in screws, then use a tube or similar to exert more force than the end can handle. Resulting in the tip shearing off. 5mm key is the one that usually goes first. The other problem with this method, is that the ball distorts the hex in the screw, as it doesn't fit the hex snugly.
If you have a stick welder, try spotting the rod onto the key so that it sticks then switch off the welder - you now have a steel rod attached to the broken key to pull it with, as long as you didn't weld it to the bolt...
Beta has a set of which the long part is round. so if you have to turn them against something, it's smoother ...
