The last 2 chains I have fitted have been supplied with a 'shim' to fit between the plates when riveting to prevent them being too tight.
Never seen or heard of that before........good as long as you don't trap it! lol Photo would be cool ;-)
Found some info via Google......... "Some chain tools provide you with spacer blocks to help you do this without over-tightening, but if you don’t have one of those then patience and care will do the trick." Spacers for correct riveting of chains. Some motorcycle chains are supplied with spacers / shims to help ensure the new joining link is not over tight when riveting. Regina chains come with shims/spacers apparently........this is also a good 'how to' article: REGINA CHAIN - Replacement of an endless riveted chain ...and another reference plus other good related chain change/maintenance info: Chainmaintenance
I found some in the garage - two different types. One came with an EK chain, the other I think with a DID. I see you've researched them for yourself. :smile:
Cheers for the advice Andy, I have done a number of chain changes and I find a angle grinder makes mince meat of a chain in seconds. I also always remove the rear wheel when doing a chain and sprocket replacement, it's a bit over the top but it let's me get into all the nooks and crannies to give a proper good clean. Also, I use the grinding from the 'inside' of the chain out, nothing there but space incase I slip. Normally, I go for Renthal chains, from B&C express, but they ALWAYS come with rivets you have to peen out using a hammer pin. Nightmare, absolute ball ache. I always feel really cautious about taking a hammer to a pin that then presses down the pin. Making it look like the rest. A few good hard hits normally does it. Hopefully the DID one won't be such a ball ache and come with the more... Civilised rivet link.
Don't mean to teach anyone to suck eggs.....I know there's many 'experienced' guys here, many more so than me! Cleaning.....you sound like a man after my own heart Peening....you will find the DID the same......invest in a chain breaker/maker tool - much safer and accurate ;-) I bought one of these, found it on ebay for £32....worth the 'investment' imho...
That's the tool set I have haha. And yea, cleaning! My second favorite thing to do after riding the bike. And nothing makes a bike look better than a clean and well oiled chain.
My actual choice goes to 14/40. I know that makes much more stress for the chain, and makes the chain whipping against the sliding shoe fitted over the swingarm, but it makes the bike easier to ride at low speed, especialy in town. Currently, I use a Supersprox sprocket (RST-737, 530:40, black), a DID chain (530 ZVM-Xring Gold, 108 links), CNC Racing rear sprocket flange gold, CNC Racing rear sprocket flange nuts black, CNC Racing rear wheel axle nuts black, and the rear chain mud guard modification suggested by AndyW here : Multistrada 1200 - Changing chain & sprockets - AndyW-inuk's Photos I like the look and I think the quality is at the rendez-vous too. My next final drive kit will be 15/42, probably with same items.
I have a set of the wire spacers, shown on the right of that picture. I keep them secure. Attached to a rare earth magnet stuck on garage door. Along with a few other minor fiddly bits I dont want to loose. Can be a bugger getting them of the magnet tho.
Well, finally time to order all my stuff, my chain is getting close to the end of it's life. Just need to wait for weather to pick up a bit. don't want to fit a new chain only to have salt water splashed all over it within it's first 50 miles!
All waiting to be fitted before my next proper trip as I will keep the original set on until the Weather/roads improve. PS - I can't find the MCN Multi ride article to scan but it will turn up as I put it in a safe place....
Chain size with 530/42t rear socket Lots of spring jobs. Plan to order the 530/42T sprocket and wonder if the original chain will be OK or will a longer chain be needed. Have sprocket carriers been used and if so which ones. Grateful for advice from the guys who have made the change already.
Hi Spanish, you'll find all the info you need by reading back through the thread I'm merging your post with.......for me 15/42 with 108 link chain i.e. OE length.
Just a thought. If I go larger in the rear , will it put the supplied chain slack measurement tool out ?
You're right but by such a small margin it's not worth worrying about imho - I still use the tool as before. You could check/set chain tension by actual measurement and then compare to the tool.
