1098 Another 1098 With Starter Issues.

Is there a video @RacingDuck ?

 

I’d start (pun intended) with a new battery.

 

Had very similar issues recently with my 848. The voltage of the battery dropping to lo is a giveaway that it's toast. Replace it you should be fine.

 

Reg/rectifier is also a soft area on the 1098 and the exact start cables are a good addition too!

 

Our Octavia would turn over but not start, Skoda says that the electronics need a particular voltage level to run, the starter motor is less fussy. We changed the battery and problem was fixed. Battery was reading about 12v before we changed it

 

Am having the same issues , did this get sorted ? Is it the battery? As mine will start perfect sometimes and randomly have this issue.

 

So am I.

Mine is in for a desmo but I told dealer of starting issues (especially in the cold) - the dealer suggested a set of beefier cables might be the way to go. Seems Exact Cables might be a good choice:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ES-04-Du...MItazvkPjZ9AIVDe3tCh1KBAcdEAQYAiABEgKxk_D_BwE

 

it's always harder starting our big twins when temp dropping to near zero, and best avoided unless a necessity/only form of transport*. I'm stating the obvious but all running and ignition systems need to be tip-top and even if it doesn't start, if churn allowed to drop too low then sprag clutch could be at risk of damage**. If you have to start when really cold - two things away from standard you could try, accepting that battery is sound and fully charged:-
Better starter/battery leads (as said) and connecting up an additional slave battery. A car battery is fine but car engine must not be running and the connection between batteries needs to be made before cranking, with preferably short, large-section jump leads. If bike does not churn and cough and start as normal, then best to abort and have a re-think/recheck, unless *.

I've not tried it on a 1098 variant but on all other bikes i've taken to using GT85 (with red "straw" attached) over the last 5 years as a last resort at times because the overall charge is not as harmful as Bradex/Easy Start etc but the propellant is flammable enough to speed-up engine responding on cranking sometimes. You would introduce it briefly into the two air-intakes and then churn immediately.


**on older large capacity bevels where sprag was not as sturdy, the risk is even higher, not from first hand but have read several testimonials of this happening on trusted Forums.

Another factor worth considering is age of fuel but gws really.

 

It’s the one thing that really bugs me with my 1098. Last year after 2 new batteries bought in the past 5 years, I put a higher rated battery on & Exact start cables. The bike is meticulously looked after & it’s always on an Optimate. No problem at all until the first cold day in November & it won’t start again. It usually does if I leave it an hour & try again but not always & it’s really irritating.
Think I’ll get it off the bike so there’s no long term drain on it, keep it on Optimate & wait until it warms up again around Spring but I’d love a better solution?

 

I connected a jump start lead to my 996, it became a pig to start after I had work done on the engine ( higher compression) I then had one of those jump start battery kits, swapped the croc clips for Anderson connector and used that jump start box to aid the starting first time, once warm it would usually then start ( it was a track bike). I did this after seeing someone else who'd done the same thing. Worked s treat and no reason it wouldn't work on any of the bikes as long as you can get additional cables to the battery and route them to the outside of the fairing where you fit the Anderson connector without the cables being overly long, was easy on the 996 because of where the battery is

 

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/anderson-power-connectors.html
Need to make sure you have a suitable size, I used the SB range
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/
Swap the croc clip for the other Anderson connector
These jump starters need to be maintained though, the batteries went in mine ( sort of ironic) not sure if the lithium ones are any better, that apart the system worked a treat, my mate called it my 996 defibrillator

 

Interesting, what do you mean by “maintained” though? Is it just a case of keeping them plugged in to an Optimate as well or is there more to it?

 

Not sure tbh, I think mine were nicads, which do not like being topped up with charge, nicads prefer to be fully discharged before recharging otherwise they lose their capacity ( not sure my jump start box had a mechanism to fully discharge the battery prior to recharging). One of the reasons most rechargable batteries are no longer nicads. I did a very quick search this morning and found a jump start box that was lithium battery and so should be ok, but read any instructions/ do some internet searches. That said they aren't that expensive and so if it gets the bike started for one winter probably worth it anyway?

 

One other point, you can get weatherproof caps for the Anderson connector so it's not a real issue having it on the bike, I could tuck mine down inside the fairing though

 

Cheers Ivor, I might look at that

 

I used cut up jump leads to connect the Anderson connector to the battery, can't remember how I terminated the battery end, I'll see if I can find them in my cavern, the Anderson end is a simple crimp. When you order the Anderson you have to order the plug, connectors ( pins in the plug, 4 pins , 2 each end) covers etc separately, I used the UK importer they are very helpful, I have their email Addy somewhere, I still have the plug wired up if you wanted a look see, happy to post it out, where are you?

 

I'm passing Solihull Thursday next, could meet at services on M42, I could bring the start box and show you and the bike cables if I can find them