Got a Hive heating pack through someone and decided to fit it today. Well I say ‘fit’ but it wouldn’t work so put the old timer/controller back on as I was getting moaned at for the house being cold ! The original controller is a Landus & Gyr RWB200 which controls CH and HW. My boiler is an Ideal Standard system boiler with a tank in the loft and separate water cylinder. Anyway, the new Hive backing plate has the same terminal as my old one but I mistakenly ‘thought’ the yellow was an earth so put that on the Hi e earth terminal which is probably why it didn’t work. Here are photos of the original wiring and the Hive instructions along with the old controller diagram. How do I wire the Hive, the first two terminals are Neutral and Live so I have a blue ( ch ) and red ( hw ) and a yellow left, where do they go ? Also on my room stat, do I just join the red and yellow wires to allow the Hive stat to control the heating.
I have Hive and British Gas came to install mine. The wiring to my thermostat is redundant and made safe due to the thermostat being a wireless controller. New wiring was installed directly to my boiler from a control panel with two or three LED's this is the new on/off brain for my boiler, this was installed to the wall next to my boiler. Then the Hive Hub was plugged into my router. I know not much help sorry.
@iang27 I installed my NEST thermostat a couple of years back, and look to have had a similar setup to yourself. I remember linking the thermostat wires together in an electrical block before plastering the wall back up, (ideally I would have removed this wire, but iirc I think one side of it went to the boiler). This basically completes the previous circuit requesting heat as this is now controlled by your new controller. I worte everything down at the time and it didn't take long to install, but I'm buggered if I can remember what was what without refereing to the diagram in the back of my old controller.
Nest here too. Same principal though, in that you’re connecting the controller to the boiler and using the old pair of wires that ran to the thermostat, to purely power the new thermostat. You don’t necessarily need them. Mine is plugged in via usb plug (through a hole in the wall as the plug is behind the fridge on the other side of the wall). Basically ignore your current thermostat wiring as it only does temp. Your main box next to the boiler that has the hot water controls is the one you want to attack first. Your last pic, terminal 2 (going left to right, labelled L) is your permanent live to go to terminal 2 (labelled L) on your new controller. Terminal 3 (labelled 1) on the old to terminal 3 (labelled 1) on the new. Central Heating off is the last terminal on the old, connect that to point labelled 2 on the new. HW on is terminal 5 on the old and CH on is terminal 4 on the old. I spy your earth hiding behind your old thermostat back plate.
Nah - if it is going to be cold, then set the time clock for say 15 to 20 minutes earlier than you get home (After all, that's what you do just before leaving work, anyway) - or have you an aversion to pushing buttons? I have an aversion to pushing buttons and turning switches - but with thermostatic rad valves. I don't have to touch them.
My wife and I have very varying schedules. Sometimes we’ll get home late and decide to go out and eat (more than we should). With geolocation control, our heating won’t be heating an empty house until we’re in the vicinity.
Geolocation.????? WTF....!!! If my wife gets in before me, she over-rides the heating control - so maybe she has to wait a few minutes to get warm. Any other time - she knows how to light a fire.
Iang , did you fit the hive main bit to the old base plate ? The wires as they are on the old plate are correct , it should fit straight on , if not change the base but keep the wires the same . As said , the room stat wires need looping out , take the room stat off and put the yellow and red wire in a connector block , chop a neat little to push them back and fit the hive room thermostat over it to hide it . Of course , turn the power off . Hope that makes sense .
I'm a spark and fitted Hives before. Only to combis however, but it's not much harder wire to their dual zone stuff. It's a piece of cake, well for me it was, and I think they're brilliant. Fitting the hub, receiver and stat is easy enough (for a spark), connecting them through wifi might take longer than fitting the tackle tbh. The only actual wiring you should have to do is at the boiler, putting the receiver nearby and flexing it back to the boiler. You don't need any of the existing wiring except the supply to the boiler. The Hive back up via the online chat or phone is excellent. It should only take a spark who's never fitted one before about 3-4 hours max, and that's allowing for a minor booboo. Get a price off a couple or ask a plumber if he knows any decent sparks. It's not really a job for a novice. When you get it sorted you'll love it. It's actually easier to use with the phone app than messing with the stat.
Yoozy If it takes a spark 3/4 hours to fit that they need shooting , agreed , it should take longer to do the app and web connecting . You don't need to touch the boiler with this 2 channel hive controller , the main unit sits on the same base plate as the programmer , just loop out the room stat at the wall or in the wiring centre but in this case stay away from the centre and do it at the wall stat . Chris
When I linked out my thermostat wires I took the opportunity to move my Nest thermostat to a more convenient position and plaster up the old location. I had to run a USB power cable through the wall to a plug socket to power the new stat.
I just leave my heating on low and turn up when cold Cheaper too as heating an old house from cold is more expensive than keeping it warm constantly
USB through the wall. Other side of the wall is the kitchen and the fridge, so you can’t even see the plug.
Sorted guys, Thanks. Turned out the wiring was as mentioned above exactly the same as it was wired for the old controller. It was the yellow wire that some clown had put a green/yellow sleeve over that was the issue. It wasn’t an earth, which I presumed it was. I fitted it yesterday with the new backing plate in under 10 minutes then 10 minutes to remove the old stat, put the cables together with a connector and fit the new stat. Plug the hub in so whole job under 30 minutes. Pity about the three hours the day before wondering why it wouldn’t work !
When I say "through' the wall, I meant "down" the wall threading in the cavity between the plaster board and block wall to a plug below. A pita as the wall was a dot n dab and the guy fitting the plasterboard must have done it at the end of the day when he had a load of muck to use up.
