I'd ask Riders if I was you, they offered to remove mine out of a brand new collector box they were fitting under warranty.
I've just took delivery of my new bike 1st opportunity I get im removing the valve (cant stick and give trouble then!) Save it ,you can always refit it, if you are worried about any future warranty issues...
If it's under warranty don't drill it out. There really is no need to. Wayne loves a drill and just can't help himself so you'll have to excuse him . You only have to disconnect the cable and manually turn the valve so it's stuck in the open position and your problems are already gone without having to vandalise anything or invalidate your warranty. The only issue that this presents is that it will throw an engine management light on the dash because the load sensor within the servo isn't detecting the resistance of the valve and therefore thinks it's not there. There are some people that recommend a spring to simulate the tension but a DUC-EE is a much more reliable, non -destructive, non-mechanical, plug and play solution. Buy a DUC-EE, loads of people use them and they're well known, tried and true. Just plug it in and it will clear the engine management light by blocking the error signal to the ECU from the servo and simulating the "all ok" signal instead. Disconnect the servo cable and you're done. You could if you wish completely remove the servo and the cables and save some weight.
I keep meaning to ask you every time this thread comes up - how do you clear the engine management light? You must still have the cable connected to something somewhere right?
The valve is only intended as a noise defeat at idle and low revs, but having it out of the way does inevitably mean that it's going to breath better at low revs and bottom end response is noticeably more crisp.
Just fit a DUC-EE, nothing more to do, nothing to disconnect, it even improves low range on a DVT. P&H recommended it and mine is still in Warranty. (PS They often turn down warranty claims for these now)
I have bypassed mine with a spring. My query really was whether the plug-in product makes any difference to simply doing what I’ve done already. It’s £50: if it makes a performance difference I may get one. If not, I’ll leave the spring on the end
You won't notice any difference at all Bradders. The only question is how long will the spring last or if the cable itself seizes or the actual servo develops a fault of it's own, all of which will only result in a light on your dash and a DUC-EE would resolve them too, but if it works and you're happy with it then no worries.
The cable, spindle and spring etc all remain connected, it's only the butterfly I drilled out, so there is no engine management light as the default position is open, so as long as the motor still cycles and feels a resistance from the spindle spring, all is well. Mine has been out for 13 months and a salty winter, still all good.
Kind of....... It's open at idle and high revs, it's the mid range from circa 3-4k till about 6k it pulls in, as it was designed to reduce noise around built up areas.
I don't see how they could turn it down as a warranty claim as I don't think it could be classed as a consumable item ?
I think if someone turned up looking for a replacement exhaust that had some other defect but also had a knackered exhaust valve that had been drilled out they would be well within their right to refuse to replace it.
While I see where you're coming from, I can't see any other reason to take the exhaust back under warranty unless it's for the stupid valve, so........ Drill the bugger out, no light, no issues. PS, you don't have to turn the valve to stick open, the default is open already.
I've had exhausts replaced on brand new bikes and cars before now - faulty welds on joints, causing them to split or a baffle coming adrift and then rattling like hell. I went through 3 exhausts in as many months on a ZZR-1400. You do if it's stuck in the closed position .... which is generally when people realise they have a problem ... you know, when it doesn't open. lol
Just a foot note for anyone considering “Drilling the bugger out”, Whilst the benefits are well documented and in my experience unparalleled Please don’t make the mistake I did, and allow the ‘paddle’ to drop into the cat when drilling out the screws. I spent the next couple of hours shaking the “be Jesus” out of the can until I could get a finger on it and wiggle it out. Not one of my better days.
I couldn't understand that either but the dealer (P&H) said they often turn them down but then will accept it if the dealer pushes them and you have a full service history. It's because they have to replace the whole CAT, which is expensive, but if they didn't fit the stupid valve in the first place or designed one that didn't rust shut they wouldn't have to!
Moto Rapido told me the centre box is near a £1000, and they were more than happy for me to drill it out as while they receive the part form Ducati, they don't get paid the full labour rate for some warranty work, and as such, were happy for me to remove it.
But what happens if you end up at another dealer? Dealer has a change of management and takes a different tune? Maybe you sell the bike inside the warranty period, someone buys it but takes it to another dealer that happens to be closer to them? I wouldn't honour a warranty claim on an exhaust that someone had beasted for any reason, directly related to the claim in question or otherwise. Any dealer would be completely within their rights to refuse.
