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1200 Bollox

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by michel couque, Oct 14, 2020.

  1. Cleaned the bike and chain today as several hundred recent miles done in filthy conditions . I do use the bike all year round, am using it in winter mainly for tutoring and delivering vital medical aid. So came across this flaking paint today for the first time. I have seen it mentioned on the forum several times about Ducati’s flaking paint on engine casings but my question is..due to my current economic predicament.... what is the most economical way to fix it, is it sensible to think about looking for a 2nd hand engine casing as easier quicker solution, does it matter if I continue through the next few months , presuming the bare metal will stay ok? The economic problem is quite big but will look at all options. Thanks in advance for the forum wisdom and help. BTW I am quite useless at DIY, so my wife states.
    Bike is MTS1200s 2013

    F3191DDB-18C7-4384-BEC2-D38249F9438D.jpeg

    50270C1A-DA16-44DE-8787-3F1F811B4E17.jpeg
     
    #1 michel couque, Oct 14, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2020
  2. I would think it would last you a year or two without issue

    BUT

    Would suggest that you drop sump guard

    Get a BRASS wire brush and brush off the paint and loose corrsion

    Then get a suitable primer (probably an etch primer)

    Paint it with a brush

    Then paint a top coat of some sort of enamel paint over it - extend into the good paint probably 10mm or so.

    May not look the best but will keep it from getting worse and not cost a packet (£20)
     
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  3. Good man, right on budget, many thanks!
     
  4. This looks like galvanic corrosion. Do you frequently use a battery tender?
     
  5. Mine did same . Got mine powder coated. Was a good match.
     
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  6. Best thread title in a while!
     
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  7. Very rarely use a battery tender, maybe a couple of times a year for 24hrs
     
  8. 2103, very futuristic ;):D
     
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  9. And I can report that it still has the same shitty engine paint, the fuel sender dies nearly as quickly as the heated grips and the back brake is still an afterthought. However the 38 forwards and 2 reverse gear auto box is as smooth as silk, the night vision HUD on the screen is most excellent. The 50cc plutonium tank only needs refuelling every 210 years. The Pirelli Scorpions MK 511 have been made retro style to remind us where it all started in 2010.
     
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  10. I think I would be tempted to clean the bike up thoroughly, ACF50 it (other anti-corrosion products are available!) and leave wet ACF in every area you find with broken paint, then keep applying to those areas every few weeks over winter to stop it getting much worse. That might stop the rot in its tracks until you have time / money for a bit of a restoration.
     
  11. it might not look nice, but its not the end of the world, as long as its not due to something like leaking coolant.
    Older engines such as 9x6 series suffer from flaking paint on the cases and never seem to get really bad.

    https://fractory.com/aluminium-corrosion

    Personally, I would paint it with an oxidising paint, or etch primer. Halfords sell rattle cans of the stuff.
    The inspection cover on the end is easy to remove, so I would take that off, clean it up and spray it separately.
     

  12. I'm not sure whether galvanic effects figure in this, but I'd use a stainless steel brush rather than brass. I've got one for cleaning aluminium for TIG welding, where even using a normal steel wire brush (let alone brass) visibly contaminates the weld. They're pretty inexpensive from welding suppliers. Maybe it won't matter anyway for a running repair. I'd love to tidy up the corrosion on my MTS engine, but where do you stop? I'd end up having to rebuild the whole thing to get it looking how I'd like it. I'll stick to keeping it running nicely and riding, it's a living thing.
     
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  13. Agree defo use etch primer if you want the topcoat to stick and stay.
    Clean off with a solvent degreaser before painting, will remove all traces of grease
     
  14. Many thanks for all the very helpful hints and so without wanting to sound like an absolute plonker do I repair it in situ?

    Have you stopped laughing yet?
     
  15. Yes

    Drop the sump guard and move the cables and pipes

    Wire brush

    Clean

    Brush Paint Prime

    Brush Paint Top Coat

    Brush Paint Top Coat 2

    DRY thorughly

    Cover with ACF50

    Reassemble


    Have a beer...
     
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  16. Beautifully written... I believe even I can achieve that.
     
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