Update; with the replacement 5AM ecu in and running a 999 map, I thought I'd reload the map previously used at the dyno and she started backfiring again on the overrun and boooming to an engine cut. I replaced the map with another stockish 999 map and it ran ok. Replaced the original suspected faulty 5AM and placed a stock 999 map in and it ran ok-ish..Reloaded the dyno map which is available on tunecu as ; 2219PQ14.hex OEM md5checksum 999 S. Ducati Performance 57mm full system This map above was used on the dyno with a very slight weakening of the mixture around 4.5 - 6.5k and it was running flawlessly. It now wont run at all, exhibiting the behaviour above. If I leave it idling, at around 50C, the idle audibly reduces and she cuts out withing 5-10seconds of this temp being reached. For the first time, it has now thrown a CPS sensor code twice! I have a new sensor on order to see if it is finally cured @Rman .... finges crossed.
I found my original CPS sensor this afternoon, 860ohm. It was working but suspected it may have been the cause of random idle cuts. That wasnt the case. So I fitted it and test run with the dyno proven map installed and as soon as the temp reached 49-50C, it dropped rpm and cut out. Using tuneecu, the idle rpm Vs temp were all set at 1370rpm. I'm struggling a bit to understand whats going on with the temp. relationship. Any ideas?
You obviously like fooking about with stuff that I’ve got no comprehension of whatsoever, I sit in awe of a lot of people on this forum, I just like riding my bikes. Many years ago, when the tram first made a reappearance on the streets of Sheffield, my friend had a bike shop, one day he got a call to pick up a Moto Guzzi that had just stopped. It was recovered back to the shop where it started and ran fine so was returned to the chaps house. The next day, it did the same and the owner rang the shop up to get it recovered again, saying the problem had returned and he was convinced it was the tramlines interfering with the bike causing it to stop. Again the bike got taken to the shop where it ran fine again. Anyhoo, long story slightly shorter, the bike stopped each day when he reached the tramlines or thereabouts, but it was because he wasn’t turning on the fuel tap and that’s how far he got before he ran out, it was nothing to do with the tramlines. The moral of this story and why I’m writing this is; just because the problem occurs at the same temperature each time, it might not be related to it at all. If it is something that happens at a certain temperature, what does the bike do at that temperature? Is it a thermostat that gets opened, or an automatic choke that shuts off? (I know nothing about owt, but I thought I ought to offer some guidance rather than just regurgitate an anecdote)
Thanks @SHarper. Thanks for your thoughts. Video is with latest non backfiring map. I know from reinstalling the original 59M ecu that it didnt suffer from the temp relationship, I also know that with the 5AM ecu in and the map installed that was perfect post dyno, that it just wont run after 50C backfiring like the proverbial and dying immediately thereafter. This morning I went out and had an EML on, no start, 0C temp reading on the dash and no connection to tuneecu on my phone. I fitted another 5AM ecu, preloaded another 999S map in that ecu with the fuel and ignition tables cut and pasted from the dyno map used previously and it runs without the backfiring nonsense..however, when the idle drops to around 1400 during warm up, temp above 50C, the rear cylinder has an occasional pop back through the intake...It does respond ok to throttle without backfiring at all. I know I'm close. I just dont get the sudden change to the bike after just fitting the quickshifter, as per previous posts. It shoudnt have changed anything else but somehow it did. I tried increasing and decreasing the timing and fuel to the rear cyl (the one popping) but it made little difference. If anything, a tiny bit more stable with a few degrees extra advance, still popping though every 20 secs or so.. The cam timing and valve clearances were set a few months ago during rebuild and havent been touched although I'm not ruling out a little migration somewhere on the rear cyl. The throttle bodies were set at the dyno at 3000 rpm on the interbody balance screw, then again at idle on the air bleeds. I've not touched these since and have no reason to believe they're affecting the engine... I dont like getting beaten..just throwing this out there in case i'm overlooking something, unfortunately its not the fuel tap though SH, wish it was......
I didn’t for one moment think it was a fuel tap issue, but I think you know that. Each time you make an incremental adjustment, are you undoing that incremental adjustment before you try adjusting something else? It doesn’t take long to get a long way from where you started. I hope you get it sorted, but if it were me I’d be putting everything back to basics and starting again, but like I say, I know nowt; don’t hesitate to get in touch if you need owt ‘twatting’, I have 13 hammers.
Two new CPS turned up today..I'll try a new one tomorrow just in case. I've ordered a couple of fp relays too, just to be sure....
I had a similar issue with my S4 special where the fuel pump would prime and shove enough fuel into the line to get me about 1/4 mile before cutting out, at which point I would, using the time-honoured universal fix for IT issues, switch it off and then switch it back on again, before going another 400m. I did 12 miles like that limping it to the workshop for the fuel pump to be replaced and had to take two booster packs for when I'd inevitably flattened the battery. Sorry I can't help with the issue OP. I don't have anything to add to what people more qualified than I have suggested, plus because I'm still about 9 years of age in my head, I love backfires, so personally I would leave it as it is! The aforementioned special is spectacular at them and the end can has a 3" bore, so it sounds like a howitzer, which is a nice aural accompaniment to the 2ft long blue flame which it shoots out.
I had some serious thinking today and went out with the laptop... I took the .bin files from my phone and imported them into tunerpro using a 749hex file. What I found was the map that was used on the dyno and the road UP UNTIL THE QS was installed has some serious erros V's the 999 map I'm using now..take a look at the images.. First up the good main fuel and rear cyl fuel diffs files; Then the BOOOMING map tables... These explain a lot.....!!!
So, given the above, I cant explain how the corruption took place there. I then took @SHarper advice and went back to basics. I left the working file alone in the ecu and reset the TPS and both idle screws. I thought I had some CR9EBs but only one kicking around. I looked up the NGK tables for the CR9EIX's I have and was quite shocked that they are advocating a gap of 0.6mm which is small compared with the extended gaps found in various recommendations. NGK must know best especially as I'm troubleshooting here.. I gapped and fitted those and opened the bleed screws 1/2 turn each, pressed the starter and cracked the throttle a fraction, she fired into life and warmed up at idle to 90 C with no more intake popping or backfiring. What a result, its been weeks of work and cursing, she needs a we run out to be sho to be sho, but I'm extremely hopeful and happy at the warm up lap!! Thanks to all for suggestions and pointers. I'll get the CO adjusted when the opportunity arises. Just the horn low volts to trace and she'll be roadworthy again. ..
All right STOP! Collaborate and listen... (ice,ice baby) Nothing that has ever gone right has started with ...“took SHarper’s advice”. I suggest that you disregard anything I’ve ever said, including this.
Dude... I'm having this exact problem, exactly the same thing happens as soon as it hits 50C. I'm going to check the plugs and see!
Also FYI... I had the exact same 'corruption' issues using tuner pro, turns out the XDF's i had were wrong, i bought one from Old skull tuning and everything is exactly as it should be now
Rather than looking at the fuelling maps try comparing the ignition timing maps between the 749 and 999.
