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Breaking In Periods

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by killjoy, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. Afternoon all,

    This time again. How have you gone about breaking in new Ducati's? Particularly the 939 engine, but I suppose it's probably fairly universal advice. Dealer has said follow the guidelines until 620 miles (6,000rpm limit) and then enjoy as normal. The manual says different, and everywhere on the internet says everything from nail it from day one, to baby it for 1,000 miles.

    What've you done and what's your experience been afterwards?
     
  2. Within reason - keep under 6000 rpm for the first 630 miles

    have the oil changed

    Off you go - ride like normal....
     
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  3. Yeah, my understanding was the same, don't be absolutely terrified of stepping over 5,999 revs, but at the same time don't go bouncing off the rev limiter on every gear change!
     
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  4. I shall be collecting my V4 next week and I have planned the full 1600 mile running in period iaw the owner's handbook. Not particularly bothered if that doesn't sit with others but it's my bike, I just paid £38k for it and I want it right for the track next year. Andy
     
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  5. My enduro had two breaking in periods, one to 620 miles staying below 6k rev's. And another 1,500miles, keeping below 7,000rpm although the mechanics stated you could go over but slowly back the power off, not jerky!

    Mine doesn't drink any oil & is blisteringly fast with the race-exhaust & ECU upgrade. I ran it in carefully & sensibly, it's not some PCP short-term deal & it's a keeper.
     
    #5 GunZenBomZ, Oct 10, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2018
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  6. New I would too. Everytime I buy stuff that costs serious money I tend to follow the manual guidelines a little closer.
     
  7. Yep
    Take it easy for the first 600ish miles until the service then give it some but don’t thrash the arse off it relentlessly until you get to a 1000..
    In my experience most bikes are not really run in until you get a couple of thousand clocked, that’s when they have loosened up enough to perform and sound as they should, don’t let that put you off nailing it though..enjoy :upyeah:
     
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  8. Another thread title fails to deliver.....
     
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  9. Don't know what you mean AirCon ;).

    Yeah Pete, that's pretty much what I plan on doing. The day I pick it up I should be able to cover about 200-300 miles so at least that'll take a chunk out of it!
     
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  10. Just ring it’s neck and ride it like you stole it.
    If
    You pussy foot around too much the rings won’t bed to the bore as they get harder with heat.
    Saying that though I do blow up about 3 motocross engines a year lol
     
  11. I would be surprised if all the dealer demo bikes get run in correctly:thinkingface:
     
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  12. Depends on the dealer. Ours was by the boss on a dyno. Andy
     
  13. Ok i think im qualified to answer this one .... years ago working on rally and general car engines and turbo units. Now i build from 38 to 78 litre diesels. Right years ago i brought a new DRz 400 and knowing fook all then i kept to the 1000 mile break in. Well it used tons of oil but never smoked. I had it for 10 years and over that period it had a few pistons pacifically JE forged one's that brought the cc up to 436 cc.

    Now the way i always break in the rings " nothing else needs breaking in"
    i build the engine with a little oil around the skirt nothing at all on the rings yes your heads telling you different. The bores i wash with warm soapy water then dry it off with a air line.

    Do not run fully synthetic oil in a new engine use 10/40 multigrade the cheapest stuff u can get hold of.

    Now assuming u have got oil pressure start the engine and let it idle for a min and switch off. If its in a bike or in a car get in a drive it up through the gears to say 4-6k then coast down in 4 then 3rd then up and down like that for say 10-15 mins. Now the rings are bedded into the bores.

    The will continue to bed in after this process but the main and most important bit is done. All your trying to do is seat the rings against the bore wall. Now we could go into honing and cross hatch on the bore walls and matching honing stones to different types of rings but that another story.

    If the engine is on the dyno change the oil after this process to say 10/40 semi then run it again for say a hour up and down the revs with different loads giving it berrys now and again. After this use as intended and it should not use oil.

    The engine manufacturers put the oil in thats intended for the motor to run all it life then it spends a lot of time idling and the rings do not seat the oils are to good now so when u get your new bike or car that your going to keep drop the oil pop some 10/40 multi in there and spank it for a few day it will love you for it .....
     
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  14. Ducati deliver the bike with an extremely thin oil specifically for the first 600 mile running in period which is why it has to be changed at 600 miles or 6 months. Fully synthetic 15w50 is used thereafter. I don’t know if Ducati are unique in the bike world but probably not. Andy
     
  15. Do you have any evidence of that statement? Can you tell us where you got that from?
     
  16. It was part of the handover conversation I had with the workshop when my V4 was being PDI’d. And you do know I work in a UK Ducati dealership ? Andy
     
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  17. Given it's new and you tell yourself this is a keeper (yeah right :D) when I've had new I've simply followed the advice, it doesn't take long to get where you need to be mileage wise.
     
  18. I have to say, I've never bothered. o_O I usually go easy for 100 miles or so, then forget about it.

    That being said, I don't buy many new bikes. :)
     
  19. I just rag everything from
    The crate.
    When I got my new 911 turbo at the beginning of the year nobody at the dealership gave a hoot about running in.
    I just hammered it from
    Day one
     
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