Can’t Get Disc Bolts Out…

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Poucher, Jun 20, 2021.

  1. Is this opposed to tools that are made with no purpose?

    I’ve met plenty of mechanics in various workshops be that working on motorcycles up to and including earthmoving equipment with plenty of tools. Who turned out to be not so great at being mechanics, you can have all the gear but still no idea. ;):confused:
     
  2. No.

    More of a variation of " Having all the tools will not make you great, but it its very difficult to be great without them all". Makes sense?
     
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  3. It’s probably just the factory thread lock.
    Warm then up, this will soften the thread lock and they should the come out.
     
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  4. I should have twigged this before I started, as Nelson said,…factory threadlock,…the bas#@* !!
    Reminded me of when I rebuilt the bevel drive on my old BMW, the BM threadlock was mega strong, a right bloody chew on that was!

    Needed heat and lots of it, so I made a kind of heatshield deflector out of a penny washer by dishing it and opening up the hole to suit the screw heads, thought this would be the best way of directing the heat and saving the paint on the discs..
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    Fits over there nicely…
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    Next step was to take the wife’s best tea towel, fold it double, soak it in cold water and cut a hole through both layers so just the screw head popped out …and give it some gas !
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    I didn’t find the impact driver very effective tbh, After 2 or 3 screws I found the best results were by using the gun on the screw for a good 3 or 4 minutes to get LOTS of heat into it, then putting the Torx socket in and giving it a good whack, letting the screw soak all the heat in and then once the Loctite had loosened it’s grip gently turn it out, keeping it moving all the time so that the Loctite didn’t get chance to set again .
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    Certainly plenty of Loctite on these buggers!

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    Job sorted !

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    Funnily enough despite not having Loctite on them, the rears were worse to get out than the fronts, mainly due to them being Allen heads but dead shallow engagement and made of cheese, I didn’t push my luck with these, so I just took the 3 off that holds the abs ring on as I was running out of gas by now , I’ll buy some new stainless ones.

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    Worked a treat this thing did , it’s seen more heat today than a Saturn 5 ceramic tile :D !

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    I’ll just hang the tea towel back in the kitchen,..she probably won’t notice anything :thinkingface: ?

    Thanks for the suggestions guys, relieved to get them all out in one piece :D :upyeah:

    Oh!…I also used my tyre machine today @DucatiScud ,…not terribly impressed :confused: ..the front wheel wouldn’t fit because the discs were fouling the rubber rests so I had to cut them away, the rubbers might need lifting higher as well to keep the discs off the frame but it didn’t matter today as I’d taken the discs off, then the blade to break the tyre bead kept “walking “ up the arm so I had to replace the hand knob with a bolt so I could use a spanner to tighten it properly , overall I’d give it about a six out of ten, only marginally better than me doing it by hand as I normally do,…might get better with practice though ;)

    Time for a beer,..knackered now :joy: !
     
    #24 Poucher, Jun 21, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2021
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  5. I was required at work to remove the power braces from a trailer the first Allen bolt came out easy enough covered in what I suspected was Blue thread lock. It wasn’t in was bonding agent for the captive inserts inside the door. The rest of the inserts weren’t very captive after I used the impact driver. :mad::mad:
    Sounds like an epic job, all fasteners as standard across all motorbikes appears to be made from Cheese,. At least with my KtM they’re a combination torn and traditional hexagon design so you get 2 chances to remove.

    Yes, the machine needs modding really, those hand tightening knobs are next to useless. Without the machine I doubt I’d change tyres myself the machine makes me attempt it.
     
    #25 DucatiScud, Jun 21, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2021
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  6. Masses of stupidly strong threadlock and screws made of cheese, tis the Italian way....o_O
     
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  7. It's good to see that success was achieved. Although I have never used it, I have made a note that "Powermaxed Shock & Unlock" is something perhaps worth a try next time I run into a difficult situation like this and think that I need some penetrating oil (rather than WD40 or equivalent, which isn't really penetrating oil anyway). The idea is to freeze the bolt to shrink it at the same time as trying to get some oil into the threads.

    https://powermaxed.com/product/shock-unlock/

    It appears to be available at a reasonable price, if you have a local branch, from GSF car parts, which would avoid the excessive postage charge often applied to aerosols.

    https://www.gsfcarparts.com/981aa2130
     
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  8. Don’t use stainless screws, although stainless is hard to cut / drill / machine.
    It’s not that strong and prone to stretching, get some 12.9 grade Allen screws.
    These will not break and they are as hard as nails, so you will be able to undo them again, even with Loctite on. You can get the torque settings on the internet.
     
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  9. Is the 12.9 a high tensile steel grade then??
     
  10. Yes, it's the highest grade for carbon-steel bolts.
     
  11. Cheers Keith,
    Might see if I can swap them out sometime, no hurry as they are only in the back disc and I don’t stomp on that hard really, strangely enough the back disc has 6 bolts in it and the fronts have only 5? Same size M8 x 20, thought it would have been the other way round really??
     
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