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Carby SS - parts needed...

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by 470four, Mar 6, 2012.

  1. Mine looks like this....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENU...018131&hash=item3fa9496991:g:SvkAAOSwK3ZbfsU-
     
  2. Where does banjo screw in?
     
  3. it screws into the brake master cylinder and replaced the existing banjo bolt

    The banjo bolt is the bolt which holds your brake lines to the master cylinder.
     
  4. Aah got you now. Thanks for your help... squeeze the lever and the pressure activates the wires.
     
  5. indeedy - the switch is a pressure switch inside the banjo bolt itself rather than a mechanical microswitch :)
     
  6. Cheers.
     
  7. Bugger! I fitted the banjo switch and brake light still didn't work, so i tested it and the switch works... I also tested the original switch and it works also.. Whats the best way to get a supply to the switch as there is no power where it plugs into harness..
     
  8. Fuse??
    My experience of an SS was that the fuse could be intact but still not work due to light corrosion between fuse and fuseholder. Wiggling sorts it
     

  9. Is it the same fuse as rear brake light switch as that works.....
     

  10. Is it the same fuse as rear brake light switch as that works.....
     
  11. Without looking it up, I don’t know but I can tell you that when I got my 999, the front brake didn’t operate the brake light. @Derek told me to try wiggling the connector r/h side in front of the tank and it’s worked ever since.
    Seems very possible there’s a similar connector on the SS
     

  12. Jeez, i'm better off with Aprilia with the small niggly problems Ducati have...
     
  13. I will check fusebox and also any connectors that may be loose
     
  14. You might be better off with a multimeter and a cup of tea... :eyes:
     
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  15. How do you know there is no power to the switch?
    If there is none, I think I might try tracing it back until I find some, thus narrowing the problem down.
    It could be corroded connectors or pinched/broken wires.
    Don’t forget the insulating plastic can be intact with the metal inside severed.
     
  16. so lets get this right;

    You fitted the banjo switch and the brake light didn't come on.

    You tested the banjo switch and it works. - How did you test it?

    You tested the original switch and that works - tested by plugging in and pressing?

    The two wires on the banjo switch are like any other switch - it completes
    the circuit and lets the power run through it.

    I'm more interested in how you tested the banjo switch - when you say it works - how did you deduce it works?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. A switch operates to make connectivity to complete the circuit. I'm an electrician! i put my test lamps between one end to the other and it beeps...connection! I tested the supply at the harness and it read 10v..., so i checked the fuse box and after cleaning connections and making sure the connection was tight as was suggested in a previous post and checking supply was good it now works. Thanks to all who helped out.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Excellent.
    I found it was really important to make sure the blade fuses are completely flat, with no twist to the blades, in order to ensure a really solid, large contact area connection with the holder.
    If there's any twist at all, then only the edges of the blades are making contact which leads to problems
     
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