I have a rear paddock stand and use that whilst adjusting the chain. Much easier all round including removing and replacing the splash guard. As for riding mode I virtually never use urban and usually ride in Touring, so I adjust using that.
Oh dear. As the swinging arm pivots up and down, the chain tension varies considerably. Whenever the swinging arm moves up towards the top of its travel, the chain gets tighter. It is important for chains never to get too tight, because that places extra stresses on the sprockets, gearbox bearings, wheel bearings, and the chain itself. That is why the chain is to be adjusted with rear pre-load at its softest and thus the swinging arm at its highest and the chain at its tightest; and Urban/Solo is the softest setting. If the chain tension is set in Touring, that implies that rear pre-load will be more, i.e. harder. As a result during ordinary use (as you hit road bumps and the swinging arm moves up and down) the tension of the chain will sometimes be too tight. And you really don't want that.
I agree Pete but am at work armed only with a phone so could not write much till I got indoors, but I am quite well versed in chain tension, after mine snapped last year nearly taking bloody leg off with it, so I now go one further than sidestand only, and actually do it on sidestand with engine running, or the suspension barely compresses.
Fair point Peter, as per the manual. I'm aware of the dangers to the transmission of an overtight chain and tend to adjust it on the slack side in line with your comment above.
hi! what is the general milage that the original chain lasts? Ive clocked 27K and feel i am coming close to a change thanks
I think you've done well there !! 27k ?? Is that miles or km's ?? Either way, not bad for a chain, but there is no set distance for a chain, change it when its either too stretched to adjust accurately, or if it's not functioning correctly.
You don't need one, just use the metal guide in tool kit, and adjust as per the manual, folk are making this out to be far more difficult and complex than it actually is. It's a chain mate, adjust, lube, ride the thing
It's that metal guide I need as didn't get one with the bike Haven't had to do the chain yet but did have to remove the back wheel 2nd day after I bought it ! Nightmare
Usually the chain will start getting slack often and needing adjustment. You can also pull the chain from the back of the rear sprocket. If @ 1/3 tooth shows it is worn out. Mine has over 16000 miles and is still good.
I whinged so much about a lack of a gauge in my tool kit, even though it's listed in the hand book, Riders eventually got a few in
Anyone else notice the chain is an 1/8" tighter when warm? I returned from a ride, found the tighted point, measured and marked with a paint pen. A few hours later a recheck in the same spot and there was an 1/8" difference. Both were checked on side stand.
I did for my ZZR and it seemed to slightly over tighten it, so I sacked it off and went back to just using a tape measure and a calibrated eyeball
