Hello to everyone, I have a problem with my 1200 DVT its a 2015 model and only done 4000 miles, and out of warranty. It seems like a clutch problem but maybe its a Gearbox issue I'm not really sure. Recently Its seems to have been very clunky on gear change in 3rd and 4th, particularly on downshift. Now when I first start the bike then put it into 1st gear there is a massive clunk, once its in first I can then move to 2nd and even 3rd with no problem. The bike doesn't try to move forward once its in 1st gear which would be what would you would expect if the clutch was dragging?? The clutch lever is adjusted as far out as it will go and the Clutch release seems to be fine, there is also no noise from the clutch only this massive clunk from the gearbox. To be honest I dare not ride it anymore in case it is doing some serious damage. Anyone had any issue like this? An thoughts or experiences would be much appreciated. Thanks
Clutch drag. Can you engage neutral at rest with the engine running? I'm guessing you can't and if you can't you need to bleed the air out of the hydraulic fluid. If you have air in the system, when you pull the lever, you will be compressing that air, which means that all of the movement at the lever is not being translated into movement at the clutch.
OR and Blairso are correct. To bleed the system does not necessarily mean all the fluid needs to be replaced, though that would be the best solution. Are you at all mechanically competent? If so you'll identify a small bleed nipple at the clutch lever. You open and close it with a spanner, preferably a ring spanner. 1) Crack open the bleed nipple just a little. Have a piece of rag or absorbent paper wrapped around/placed to catch any hydraulic fluid that weeps out. 2) Squeeze the clutch lever slowly and watch carefully for hydraulic fluid to appear at the top of the bleed nipple. When it does, close the nipple and nip it up - it doesn't take any force and don't overtighten. 3) See if that has improved things. You can repeat the process once or twice, maybe after a short ride.
As above, bleed the top end by the MC and check your chain, both bake gear change noisy and 1st clunky
Thanks all for the prompt responses, But its just the first engagement after start up, after that I can find neutral no problem, and I can alos move from 1st gear to 2nd gear at a standstill no prblem. Also the bike doesn't try to move forward at all with the clutch pulled in, which is all very wired. The chain is adjusted correctly. Do you think it could still be air in the system?
It’s also worth noting that my bike had difficulty changing gears on a recent trip to the alps even though engine temp was no more than 80 degrees but in a prolonged uphill stretch. Found that oil level plays a role. Got much sweeter when the oil level was raised to full level.
that almost certainly is the spring or crab of the change that must / must move the gears to their place, when it is weakened or half broken, it makes a lot of noise and it is difficult to engage, watch it is a piece that breaks very regularly, it is not an expensive breakdown but it can make a trip or trip bitter
@spanish not sure why the face palm. It is a two min job with one tool and a rag to bleed the top, and makes a huge difference if there’s air in there
Thanks for all your advice and help everyone, I'm trying to do the easiest things first: 1, I've bleed the nipple near the lever and really no difference to the clunking. I really want to bleed the one on the slave cylinder too but I need to get some brake fluid before I can do that, however DOT 4 is not easy to find here in Thailand. 2, the chain tension is fine I've just adjusted it. It still seems like a clutch dragging issue but it seems weird that there's no problem finding neutral, In fact this bike is much better on that score than my last Ducati. IL try to make a video and maybe that will help someone to help pin down the problem
Did you adjust the chain correctly? Your Gearbox will be under a lot of stress if you have got your chain to tight? Its easy to over tighten it, and in general, opinion seems to be run it slightly loose for better gear shifts Follow the procedure in the manual with the bike on the side stand in urban mode and measure with the tension gauge device
I'd recommend changing your oil as well. It can have a big impact on the operation of the gearbox and clutch and is cheap and quick to do.
Google: MOTION PRO 11mm Mini Bleeder and MOTION PRO 8mm Mini Bleeder I carry one of each on both bikes. Does both brakes and clutch.
Yes. The top nipple on the lever is an 11 mm, and the bottom one 8mm on the clutch so you need both. They are expensive, but work well. I find I need to bleed every couple of weeks especially on the 1199. You could get away with a length of pipe, and a spanner, bit where's the fun in that!
