Yep it did make it bit better but not hole lot. Will start putting stock springs and caps in next then plate to see which one is problematic.
I think it would as the plate would sit further outboard (to the right) if it wasn’t engaged with the drum. Then, when the springs are installed and tightened down the base of the spring would be more to the right however the top of the post would be in its normal position. So...when it is all screwed down the springs would be more compressed and thus, more coil bound. Unless...I am not thinking straight and thus completely wrong with my logic. Anyways...it didn’t help so, Lucas will have to sort it out by other means.
i think that pressure plate tat thing is for a slipper and doesn't engage with the drum like the std cover does...
Pressure plate for std clurch has teeth, for slippers it is smooth, no teeth. You cant use one on the other
It's correct pressure late lol. It just started when I put new plates in. Will bleed more and flush clutch line completely tomorrow.
You haven’t said if the drag gets worse as the motor warms up. Although you would think it would be down to the misaligned pressure plate.
Sorry did not have time to take it for a spin as no time to do MOT. Doing one tomorrow morning so that will be part of test ride as MOT is 5 miles away and at worse I can ride it without clutch done that before.
My 4th post would suggest not: Ok so I have stack height 38.32 to 38.38 so all good. I have order 2x2mm steel 1x3mm drive 1x1.5mm convex steel Then 6 more drive and 2mm steel alternating Springs are over 36.65 to 36.75 depending on measurement I have after market slave, pressure plate (ducabike) and lever. Saying this till drive plate change clutch was fine with above. When I change gears now I can force them in while stationary but it is a force in. No way to find N till engine off or rolling.
Why did you put new frictions in? If it was fine before with same setup I'll assume stack hight is now to large. Therefore I'd start by removing 1 of the bottom steels and seeing if I get slip.
Cause clutch was slipping. Could not even do wheelie no more or accelerate hard. Book stack height is 38.5 i have replaced all but 2 plates which gave me 38.32 to 38.38 and its still dragging well we will see in few hours when I go do mot
You don’t have to do a test ride, you can check it out stationary at home - much safer too. Wearing out friction plates before they get unusable due to the tangs being knackered is really unusual. You must have really hammered the clutch or something else was wrong, such as no play at the lever. When this happened to me with new plates, everyone told me too that my stack height had to be too high and I kept removing plates but it didn’t help at all with the drag. What it did do though was to give a two-finger-light lever due to the reduced preload on the springs. I ended up with a stack height of something like 33mm but as I was getting no slip and the light lever was so nice, I kept it like that thinking I could always add a plate or two if I do start to get slip. Hasn’t happened yet. Stack height would appear to be critical for slipper clutches and it’s really important not to go too high on a conventional clutch because the top plate can jump out of the basket. Imho, a little lower is no problem though. I know your tangs look to have enough clearance but I’d still love to know if the drag is there from start up or gets worse as the motor warms up.
