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Clutch

Discussion in 'Streetfighter' started by jimbob50, Nov 26, 2017.

  1. Starting to see why ducati,s are a love hate thing, begining to hate the sodding thing, pulled the clutch apart as it was layerd in dust, looking at the plates they were worn, so just orderd a new clutch from germany, cleaned it all out, fitted the plates as per instructions, tried it and its clunky to get into gear and i cannot get neutral whilst stood still, adjusted the clutch lever and bled the slave, twating thing is still the same, but i havent had a run on it, doubting that would make getting nuetral any eaisier?, i didnt measure the stack heights of the new and old unit, clutch feels heavy, before it was a little rattly with the clutch out, now its a little rattly when its pulled in.
     
  2. Stack height is critical. Schoolboy error not measuring the new unit I'm afraid. :(
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Do i mix in old steels to get the correct height?
     
  4. "New clutch from Germany" ? Ducati genuine parts or aftermarket ? Slipper or not ? How many friction plates, how many steels in 2mm, 1.5mm ? Any dished plates ? Broadly speaking non slipper starts with steel then friction, slipper starts with a friction then a steel. Aim for a pack height of 36.5mm +0/-max 0.5mm. Andy
     
  5. Its an aftermarket non slipper, 1 dished,9 steels,8 friction
     
  6. The steels should be a mix of 2mm and 1.5mm. If your existing steels measure up you can reuse them. My preference is to run 2 x 1.5mm dished plates either side of the same friction plate although some use 4 and some don't use any. If your frictions are sintered you'll probably need all 8 but if they are organic you might only need 7 and make up the pack height with 2 steels last under the pressure plate. Andy
     
  7. I’ll bet your new plates are binding in the basket slots.
    Cure is to use old plates in the top quarter or so of the pack.
    When they’ve been in a while, you can take the old plates out and then put the new ones you left out in at the bottom of the pack.
    Aim to have your stack lower rather than higher, imho, exact stack height is not critical in a non-slipper. It is important to not get the stack height too close to the the top of the basket slots though.
    Mine is low thirties and works a treat. :)
    Test the clutch in the garage before putting everything back together.
    Binding tends to get worse as the motor warms up and can get positively dangerous, so warm the motor up to temperature and then make sure it’s not binding before taking it on the road
     
    #8 Old rider, Nov 26, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2017
    • Useful Useful x 1
  8. The new stack is 39,6 the old is 38.2 thats with all the right amount of plates in each stack
     
  9. Take a doubled up steel out.
    If you’re not a huge fan of the dry clutch rattle, you can always do the quiet clutch mod and start with a friction plate at the bottom.
    The total pack will be the same height but the effective height will be lower as the first friction plate will sit lower in the basket slots.
     
  10. Ended up taking one of the double steel plates out, still not quite right, but tabs on new frictions are a lot tighter in the basket compared to the old ones, i,ll give them a bit bedding in time then try the doubled plate back in, thanks for all the advice, but still havent fallen in love with it yet,
     
  11. Don’t bother putting it back in. As I said, aim for a lower rather than higher stack height.
    Doubled plates run together and don’t move relative to each other, so perform no special function other than to increase stack height.
    Putting old non-binding plates in at the top will allow the clutch to clear and not drag.
    I love the clutch as it’s so easy to play around and experiment with :)
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
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