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Corroded disc bolts

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Tripletrouble, Jul 2, 2012.

  1. As above, after 6k miles they look a mess. Sod messing about with warranty as any new ones fitted will corrode just as badly so I'm going to replace them.
    Anyone know of a good source for replacement? I don't want titanium but SS would be good.
     
  2. Screw fix is a good place for allsorts of nuts and bolts and fasteners, dirt cheap aswell :upyeah:
     
  3. I've looked at ProBolt, sod their prices for a game of soldiers, £4 each FFS :frown:
    What is the size of the bolt, would anyone know?
     
  4. If it is anything like the carbed SS disc bolt, it is a Low Head Socket M8 x 20mm (I think the length is correct, or 25mm maybe....won't make any difference, or it doesn't on the SS wheel anyway).........Sometimes hard to find in stainless, button head nearest thing.....

    Note: Tensile and sheer strength of stainless is not as good as 'normal' high tensile steel, although I am inclined to reckon that if the disc bolts sheer, your brake pads will have welded themselves to the disc first.....But at least go for A4 stainless instead of A2 if you really want stainless.

    I have a supplier on my doorstep that is considerably cheaper than all the online people, but they don't do mail order....24 bolts A2 = £2-50.

    I have deal with this one before though....they seem OK, but stiil costly in my opinion..... they also do 'low head socket' in A4

    http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A4_ScrewBolt_SHBtn_M8.html


    AL
     
    #4 Ghost Rider, Jul 2, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2012
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Thanks for that. If someone can confirm the length of the bolt I'll order some A4 through them and probably get a bit of a selection whilst I'm at it.
     
    #5 Tripletrouble, Jul 2, 2012
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  6. stigs fasteners have good website for stainless bolts

    you do realise that the safety nazis will be along sioon with dire warnings about using stainless on brake fittings - apparantly this may be an issue but I've used stainless for years without any issues
     
  7. Why not simply remove one and measure it?..........Check the thread size as well............easier than getting them wrong etc etc......If you aren't sure if they are 'Low Head' or not, compare the images on the Westfield site.......or post one here....

    AL.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. Can't get them out. They are Torx drive. I have the correct bit but fcuk me they are in tight. I fear rounding them off before they will budge. Bloody Ducati, no doubt smothered in loctite.
     
    #8 Tripletrouble, Jul 2, 2012
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  9. impact driver and or heat usually gets these out

    invest in some copper slip before you install replacement bolts
     
  10. They shouldn't be too tight, just 25Nm according to the manual but as you say no doubt over zealous use of the super strength red threadlock is the likely problem!
    If you have a gas torch (sort of thing for soldering plumbing) you could try heating the bolt heads.......with some care obviously as the wheel bearings are so close.

    Refitting the brake disks
    Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and smear a medium strength threadlocker on
    the threads of retaining screws (5).
    Operating on the left side, fit the phonic wheel (6).
    Tighten the fixing screws (5) of the brake disk (7) to the wheel following this sequence: 1-3-5-2-4.


     
  11. Oh I like coppaslip and have used a fair bit of it on the Duke already.
    Now all I need is some kind soul to let me know the bolt size so I can order up replacements before removing the old ones down a friends commercial garage.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Disc and phonic wheel to wheel rim fixing screw M8x1.25
    .....no idea on the length though :-(
     
  13. Bugger. Thanks anyway, fingers crossed someone on here knows.
     
  14. sounds like getting them out is the first issue - I saw this thread earlier but didn't comment on removal problems as I saw how new the bike was.. AL has probably had the same on older bikes - you can 'carefully' hammer on the face of the screw with increasing weight of blow to help loosen - this not only helps to jar them loose but closes up the tolerances on the hex/torx profile that you just half-slipped on. I find that as you flatten the face (in extreme cases) you even need to carefully tap the drive socket in. If anyone has used the wrong Loctite grade then you could be really b*gg*r*d unfortunately.
     
  15. If it were my bike and within warranty, I would get the dealer to replace them. Give them the headache of removoing them, make sure they use copper slip when fitting the new ones, then apply a little ACF50 with a toothbrush to the heads of the new bolts. Keep the ACF50 away from the braking surfaces though.
     
  16. That means bike off the road and with the summer we're having I can ill afford to have that.
    I need to ride at every opportunity.
    I'll post the question on the US site, see if any of them know.
     
  17. Personally i wouldn't copaslip a disc bolt.

    It's not something you are likely to need to remove again and you certainly don't want them vibrating loose, something for which twins are renowned. They need to be loctited, IMHO.

    And if you buy Allen headed bolts to replace you should not have an issue removing them again.
     
  18. The answer is M8x20.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  19. Problems getting disc bolts out. Think counter intuitive, freeze spray bolt you want it to shrink not expand with heat. Freeze spray will also break any thread locking compound. Freeze spray readily available.
    New bolts should be fitted with loctite blue, not copper slip in this application. Copper slip has its uses.
     
  20. Think he might have sorted it by now! It was 8 years ago.:D:D

    @Gartree
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
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