1200 DVT Dealer Wont Offer Solution To Pad Or -disc Issue = Vibrations Under Braking

You need to measure them and determine the remaining thickness.
I assume you had just had this bike serviced? You don't specifically state that you did but based on your post I assume that you are complaining that the pads are worn immediately after a service?

 

Same dealer that sold you a full power bike that was actually 100hp?!

 

Blame 'The Tories' then, seems to be a running theme

 

Apologies for asking, But I can't seem to see the link between why you think it is the dealers fault, was it in for a service and they missed this on a service? If that is the case then under the guise you mentioned or even just a good dealer then the on the limit pads should have been mentioned. If however the bike was in the shop for something else then that might explain why the brakes were not looked at?

As a separate aside, do you use a disc lock?

 

I think it's because Riko had just bought the bike from the dealer and it should have been inspected as an approved Ducati used bike to a certain standard?

 

The 2nd image shows one brake caliper is extending out further than the other. Needs a good clean & lube and that should remove the vibrations caused by one been out of sink with the rest. I can understand your frustration at the lower than 'prescribed' pads been palmed off with the purchase of the bike. But you should have checked them as part of your own basic visual checks before even riding off. I'd stick with the recommended brake pads & even those have many thousands of miles use left in them frankly. Not trying to make enemies but pads are a intrinic thing that needs replacing every so often.

 

I'd check your disc bobbins as well, sometimes they get a bit gummed up with old brake dust and don't revolve / let the disc move a bit .
I've cleaned mine by spraying brake cleaner onto the bobbins and then turning the bobbins by revolving them with a suitably sized round file stuck into the middle of the bobbin, work around both discs and clean off any excess brake cleaner with kitchen towel, sometimes that's all it takes to stop the vibration when your braking.

If it's still noticeable after that, check your discs for runout with a Dial test indicator they could be warped.

P.S. your brake caliper pistons could do with a good clean with brake cleaner solvent and a brush as well, when you fit the new pads the pistons will have to be pushed back into the brake calipers, if you don't give the pistons a good clean before doing this you shove all the brake crap into the piston seals and this could damage them.

Hope this helps

 

Check this thread for the Bremo Brake configurator
http://moto.brembo.com/en
And this one for more info
https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/need-new-front-pads-for-my-dvt-s.43970/
Make sure you buy the correct ones, don't be tempted to buy 'racing' versions as these work at higher temperatures than you get with normal street riding and will actually work less well. I made this mistake and fitted aggressive ones and put a lot of wear on the discs when I converted to M50 Calipers on my older 2010 model

 

A Mechanic advised me to add a tiny bit of grease where it touches the caliper and shim to stop squealing (as well as the back of the pad - which he said does nothing). I've marked this in red, but be very careful not to get any on the pad or disc.

 

Exactly what Poucher said. It's either the bobbins between the disks and the rotor not allowing the disks to "float" or the disks are warped. It's got nothing to do with the pads and no amount of lubing the pistons, etc, will resolve that. The only reason the pads might be involved is if they have caused warping due to a hot spot/zone on the disk, which could be as a result of excessive or uneven wear, but can also be created by brand new pads not being bedded in correctly. Either way, if you can feel any vibration through the lever and the bobbins are clean then your disks are F.U.C.T.

 

A common cause of disk warping is slowing down to a stop with aggressive braking and then siting there stationary with the brake still applied, thus causing all heat built up in the pad to be retained in one small area of the disk surface. Generally bike disks are of a lighter construction and can dissipate the extra heat quickly, but it can be a common issue on cars due to poorer ventilation in this area and by the disks being of a denser construction. More noticeable on automatic cars when people sit with a foot on the brake pedal at traffic lights. It can cause disks to crack in extreme cases.

 

Make sure its Copperslip not just any normal grease.

 

Rick B is right, but regardless of the grease you should only apply copperslip to the side edges and never to the top of the brake pads. Even though copperslip should not melt and run onto the face of the pad it is still possible for it to migrate it's way from the top to the bottom in certain circumstances ... gravity is a bitch like that.

 

Okay I get your drift now. Uoi bought it second hand and the dealer appears not to have pdi'd it properly. Yep I'd do the pads myself for peace of mind and then as the others have mentioned, check the bobbins

 

Anyone on here ever paid $300 for a set of front pads? Time to find a new dealer, if you have any proper Ducati dealers or any that do mail order they should be able to tell how much the pads actually cost and supply them. A quick search on ebay has various EBC pads available for around £60-70 for a front wheel set (4 pads) in the UK. You could even get them from Moto Rapido in the UK with absolute faith you are not getting ripped off for a set of OEM pads. To get that much differential wear between the two discs means you really should be considering cleaning the callipers up and checking the pistons operation. If it was mine I would be changing the pads (all 4) pretty soon but not until the callipers were checked for partial seizure or sticking. BTW the worn pads look like they have been running much hotter, the other calliper shows what they should look like. I think the right hand piston on the worn side is sticking which means on that disc most of the movement is wearing the left side of the disc. When you measure them they would normally be quite close is thickness, it looks like that disc has worn more than the other side