hello all, just getting to grips with my new bike 748s 1997. got the diag working. thanks for all your help. i have a few question if some one can help. 1. what the idle speed ment to be? mine is around 1200 2. my battery is charging at 13.4v at idle tested at the battery but diag shows 12.8? ive checked the normal rec wiring and plug etc, all ok 3. at low revs, 2000rpm ish, the engine has a slight hicup. is this normal for a ducati?? i had an aprilia rsv which did the same and the dealer said this is normal for a V twin at low revs. i should say the bike has a full TERMI system and is fitted with an ARROW ECPROM chip. 4. on guzzi diag im showing a active fault on the ambient air temp sensor. although the sensor is reading the correct air temp shown on the diagnostic?? not shaw what to make of this. i appricate any help with getting to know my new bike.
If your voltage is 13.4 then it's 13.4. unless you don't trust your multimeter and do trust a piece of freeware more. I have no hiccups at any rpm, 1200 is about right. I wouldn't go much lower. You might want to put this diag software away for now and set you throttle bodies and synchronise the cylinders with good old fashioned gauges first. Then reset your TPS which I'm afraid is also manual and not software. Diag software can help with that as it should show you the TPS voltage. You can also use a multimeter for that. If the bike is new to you some fresh plugs might also be a good idea. CO is a trim pot in the ECU but without a gas tester I wouldn't touch that. They are quite fragile and you should use a plastic screwdriver if you do decide to fiddle with it. If you slip and make some unwanted connections with a metal one it's game over. The potentiometer is not 360 degrees. It's tiny and you can easily go to far and then it's fcuked. There are quite a few threads on various forums on how to set the throttle bodies and tps. Good luck with it.
Hi Karl, tick over speed is ok, battery charge voltage is ok and ignore the diag reading, that is a reading from the ecu and there is a bunch of stuff that could be affecting the charge voltage reading at that end of the system, testing charge voltage at the battery is more accurate. The lumpy bottom end is always an issue which when they are set up carefully is reduced, just don't try driving it at revs less than around 3k, they don't like it. However, to minimize the effect the chip really needs a custom map (better than the approximate map supplied with the exhaust cans) or at least a proper throttle set up by someone that knows how to do it precisely. When slightly out they can spit back, stall and not pick up very well. There are a great deal of 748 bikes that are sold as 748Ss due to most 748s having 748S indicated on the frame number sticker, from 97 there were very few imported to the UK, are you sure yours is an S?
Just picking up on @Denzil the Ducati last point, if yours is 1997 it’s not an S, but have no fear. It’s most likely a BiPosto which has the same spec (bar the wheels) as the S which was introduced for the 2000MY to differentiate it from a slightly lower spec E model that was also introduced in that year. Yours should have a gold frame, gold 3 spoke wheels, fully adjustable Showa front suspension, part adjustable Showa rear suspension, adjustable headstock angle (road/track) and if it’s a UK bike it will have the temp gauge in F not C. Oh, and it should be yellow -all 748s should be yellow
Just to tag on to this, my bike is a 98 with gold frame, 3 spokes, Showa fronts but ohlins rear. Looking at the Patina of the rear I would say the ohlins has been on from day one. Any way to tell exactly which one I have ? I know the later S models came with the gold stantions so that was a good giveaway
hello. started life as a yellow bike. its a 1997 model, adjustable head stock angle. temp gauge in F adjustable rear showa shock. anyway, i love it. i had a poster of the foggy 916 as a teenager. lways wanted one. i also have a kawasaki ZZR1100 TURBO. its a f**king death trap. running 11psi of boost. the zzr isn't a slow bike to start with. but thats what happens when you have time on your hands over lock down...
Ohlins rear is either an SPS from that era or the original owner changed it. Do you have cast iron disks or stainless? I was joking about the yellow bit - well only a little bit. IMO they should be yellow to differentiate them but then mine is so Zin biased.
another question. is it possible to open the TEMP gauge? the glass has a crack and i was hoping to replace the glass insted of the hole gauge.
this came up recently as someone ingeniously recreated the black retaining ring by computer. I will try and find that thread although OP stated that he had no plans to make a batch. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/temperature-guage-glass.44881/#post-789359 https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/ducati-racing-rev-counter-nooooooo.61714/page-2#post-1657124 https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/998-water-gauge-dismantling.15493/#post-238622
I've done it. It's all glued up so I cut away the white flange underneath which holds the black bezel with a Dremel and a thin carbide grinder. Prise out the glass and replace. Put bezel back in the same place and fill with epoxy glue can't be seen at all afterwards. Someone said you can cut between the bezel and the body with a scalpel but that didn't work for me. It probably depends how well the bezel is glued in the first place. Anyway, here are the bezel dimensions if you need them.
I didn't do the drawing or the 3d printing. Can't take credit for that. The chap who did let me have the drawing though. I managed to save the original bezel on mine.
