I'm a Ducati newbie so if I ask questions that is common knowledge please forgive me.....! I just bought a 1993 900ss that has a set of std looking exhaust cans but it's as loud as hell! There is an empty section (about 150mm long) at the end of the can and looking down into it them,there are a few baffle plates and tubes further forward. I take it that a rear section has been removed but what would that look bit look like? I need to get this bike inspected to get it registered so I have been looking at "Spark" exhaust cans on eBay and does anybody have any experience with them? I would need the bike to be decently muffled, but I would take the db killers out after that. The bike is also 944cc and running 41mm FCR flatslides. Thanks in advance for any info!
Sounds like you wanna keep them as is. loud exhausts are best so folk can hear you coming. Not had any experience with Spark. Are they pricey? A few of us have experience With FCRs. Sev had them and I have them. They are a bit tempremental but totally pep up the bike. Plus with a 944 kit it should go some! Welcome to Ducati ownership, they are the best imo, particularly the 2v 900 SS of course
Thanks for the help and info! Hopefully not another silly question, does the later injected 900ss exhaust systems fit the earlier carb model?
Have to agree. Have a 999 now, with gutted can. The 750ss I had before had half the power but with race cans and opened airbox, sounded twice as good
As Sev said, yes, with some persuasion. But it also may affect your performance; for example if you fit OEM carbed SS exhaust or if you fit OEM SS IE exhaust which have not been buggered about; but the reason for the ones fitted on yours being hogged out is because someone has fitted a Stage 1 or Stage 2 Dynojet kit to the carbs. So, firstly let us see a pic of the exhaust cans fitted to your as they are now so we can see if they are OEM; plus take a pic of the top of your airbox and post that as well. Also, if your cans are OEM but hogged out for whatever reason, there may be a cheaper way of dealing with that noise problem if you still want to keep the stock looking system - or in other words don't buy a set of zorsts that you have to spend hours and money making them fit. If you are any good with a drill and a pop riveter, there is a good chance that you could replace the guts giving you a straight through system but much quieter. AL
The bike was set up by Ducati Adelaide with the 41mm fcr's and 944cc kit(I have a book of receipts with the bike) and the Airbox has a triangular section removed where the snorkels were and a K+N air filter fitted. The silencers are marked Ducati with the code ZDM-AO4 on the top face and "Lafranconi" 573.1.004.2c on the inside face(R/hand side). I did drill out the three pop rivets on this can but I couldn't easily pull the rear outlet off so I re-riveted it back in place. Other than this all being loud I'm very happy, it's just that I don't think I'll be able to get this passed for rego. Mind you just about every Harley has straight throughs on so it , so this isn't that bad!! Putting photo's up is beyond my computer skills!!
Below post reply it says upload a file. Click on that and you just choose your photo off your computer or you can take a photo there and then if you are using a phone or tablet. Easy peasy
OK......From your description, I can tell you straight away that putting a stock OEM non-buggered about with zorst system on you bike will seriously affect performance. As I have deleted all of my IE parts manuals I can't get a proper check on the exhaust part number you quote; however it is very close to the OEM part number for the USA 900SS Superlight (I have kept my carbed model parts manuals). I reckon you need to get more pics up on this forum, because I wonder exactly what bike you have there.
Yes Sev, Without checking all the models' part numbers the ones the OP quotes are for 1990 - 1992 900 SS but I note some people have them on Stradas.
I checked the exhaust can numbers on Stein dinse and they are std cans for that model. I'm sure they have been part gutted though. Some photo's!
They have had the rear return section removed so acting as straight through essentially unbaffled pipes. Combined with the carbs and open airbox I'm not surprised it is loud!
My Lazer zorsts on my carbed 750 SS were quite loud, but it wasn't a nice loud.....didn't sound right. When I decided to change the ally sleeve for carbon, I dismantled the cans and removed what was left of wire wool packing - no fibre packing at all. Having reassembled using decent packing and the carbon sleeve, the exhaust note was much deeper and nicer, but actually they weren't very loud. They are straight through cans with no internal baffles - just a perforated tube right through from one end to the other.
Does anybody have any info about how to take the cans apart? If I can get them apart I can see how to turn them into absortion style cans(99% aftermarket cans work this way).
Have a look here and see if it is any use.......your cans look different to how mine were, so I can't be sure what you have. http://www.ducatisuite.com/mufflers.html
Thanks for that. I seem to have differently mounted end caps(three pop rivets) but I suspect I have to get more brutal to get them off!
Ah yes, I found DucatSuite really useful when I had my SS. That’s largely where I got the now disputed 14mm float height from, although it was generally bandied around as being the correct figure. Maybe @Faith would find it interesting as it is Monster orientated?
I'm still not sure why the 14mm exists........I can only assume that it stems from other models those carbs are fitted to; like Yamaha and Monsters......maybe the carb angle varies across the range of bikes. Even so, that doesn't really tie up with the fact that there is sometimes a line on the outside of the float bowls and the level should be 5.1 - 6.1mm above the line or it can be 15.8 - 16.8mm from the bottom of the word MIKUNI on the bowls. Both appear to be the correct fuel height and it is checked by the 'water level tube method'.......you remove the float bowl overflow tube and replace it with a clear tube, hold the tube so it curves down then vertical.....unscrew the float bowl drain plug enough to let the fuel run into the tube - the level in the tube should be equal to 5.1 - 6.1mm above the line on the float bowl or it can be 15.8 - 16.8mm from the bottom of the word MIKUNI. Maybe the 14mm measurement originally stems from someone who mis-understood the 15.8 - 16.8mm measurement. I never checked the method out - too bloody involved as far as I was concerned........I just worked out that 14mm was wrong for the SS and by trial and error found it should be around 12mm, which tied up with the number of turns out on the pilot screws.
