Ok! Cut a long story short (Yes, really) ... rewired the pump feed direct from the relay (Yes! The relay has been tested and works fine) to the pump connector. Fitted tank. Switched on ignition .... No Pump!! Could not believe my ears. Swore a LOT! (Scared the shit out of the mechanic who was napping in the corner on a quiet Saturday morning). Took a couple of deep breaths and broke out the multi-meter. Tested on the relay side of the four way connector. 12v. Tested on the pump side of the connector. 0v. Snipped the wire on the pump side and crimped on a spade connector and hard wired it to the new feed from the relay. Switched on ignition. Pump whirred into life. Seems the problem has been the connector block. (Really!) Tested again, and again, and again. Pump now solidly starting on the prime cycle every time. (Phew!) Hooked up the breather and the two quick fit connects (Click! Click!) and refitted the seat unit. Jumped aboard, clutch in and hit the starter ... Ducati 996 - She No Run!! The tank *was* quite low so thought it might just be needing more fuel. Popped a fivers worth in from the forecourt. Tried again. Not even offering!! Any clues guys, I'm just about at the end of my tether. Air lock maybe? The pump is still working fine on the prime cycle but the b1tch refuses to start. Ran the battery flat and had a go with a booster pack. Still no joy. Anyone want to buy a Ducati 996? One careful owner .... : (( John.
Really thought you were going to say it roared into life... Back to basics I guess Do you have a spark? Do you have fuel getting to the cylinder??
When you refitted the tank were you v careful on the pipes? It's not unkown for some bikes when putting a tank back on for the pipe to be nipped by the tank so blocking the fuel coming through
@noobie Good thought ... I had that one too as the fuel pipes seem to be really easy to kink. At some point I disconnected the quick fit connectors and refitted. Didn't seem to make any difference, what I'll do next is raise the tank on pieces of wood and make sure the pipes are not compressed. Quick whiff of easy start to ensure that there's a spark, and take it from there. Maybe if I can get her going on easy start it might help clear any air locks. Cheers, John
Next instalment .... OK, so last night I paid another visit to my friendly bike park (aka MOT Station) to have a whirl and see if I can work out wtf is going on. Lifted the tank on to two blocks of wood to make sure the hoses were not kinked. Also gives access to the inlets for a whiff of easy-start. Popped the old key in and turned the ignition. Pump is still whirring into life, so I think that issue is sorted (at last). Hit the starter and no life. Not even offering. Flattened battery now, so roll out the booster pack and connect that up. A quick squirt of easy start into both inlets and give it another go. Still nothing. Now it seems there is no spark!! Went to remove the wood from under the tank, but when I tilted it over I heard an unwelcome "snap" noise. One of the quick fit connectors has broken off and left the plastic spout in the tank fitment. Just when I thought it couldn't get any worse. Anyone know where I can source these plastic quick fit fitments? : (
Yes, I have lots of California Cycleworks ones, they are listed on my Web Site... http://www.exactuk.com/cpc-type-fuel-line-connectors/
Posting in the morning 1st Class post. Will put a couple of spare O-Rings in for you - might be best to change the other O-Ring too - some Engineers change them when servicing. Cheers, Stu
So you say no spark now , when cranking the bike over can you hear the pump running ? If not ,maybe crank sensor or wiring ....could it of got disturbed ? You say pump primes when ignition switched on , this tells me ecm must be powered up as it's the ecm which drops the earth path on fuel pump relay windings for prime function . So if pump does run when cranking this is telling that it is getting crank shaft signal and issue just lies with the coils .....say ....12 volt supply maybe ?? Another diagnostic tip , get a 12 volt bulb type test light when checking for feeds , you 'see' it better with a bulb as the bulb 'pulls out ' more from the circuit you are testing , a mult meter on voltage hardly pulls anything ....... this is why when you checked that fuel pump circuit with your meter you had the 12 volts showing on your meter but when the pump was in place it still did not run, it's the extra amps of the pump showing the bad wiring on that connector block , the meter does not show it because it does not load the circuit ,in fact what I do with with higher current consumers is test with my 55 watt halogen bulb test light , it gives you a better idea that the wiring can carry some load . Keep at it your getting there
yip, pumping during cranking suggest rpm signal good. it would be interesting to know if it will bump start.if so, i possibly have a solution.
@mechcanico lee Great tips, thanks! I've a test light kicking about somewhere ... but tend to use my multimeter instead. Will use the light in future. @finm Cheers finm, will give a bump a go. I'll be hiring a trailer next week to get the old girl home, so will try bumping before trailering ... it'd be so much nicer driving it home. Thanks, Ripface
Mmmmm intrigued Fimn ......bump start will run but cranking no go ....... starter motor consuming earth pathway or faster engine speed whilst bumping showing low ac signal from crank sensor maybe ??
something that took a while for me to diagnose on my fugly, about three years that ultimately lead to me buying an 848. so maybe it was a blessing in disguise. in retrospect maybe not tho as i guess the 996 uses a different ignition system but it's a quick check to eliminate. we where talking about this on old riders V.Twin single's thread. coil drivers. cant say exactly why the drivers appeared to be switching off during cranking because part of my diagnosis procedure involved giving the ECU a direct power supply off of a whopping great battery i had the starter hooked up to. but i would get no ignition (spark) during cranking but got a working fuel pump. i had heard of this fault while working with fiat but never experienced it. it would bump start, jacked up rear removed the pugs spin the back wheel get ignition. off the starter even with he plugs removed no spark. every conceivable earth and power supply substituted, every relay bridged or bypassed. replaced the starter. baboom. sorted. i believe that ECU is v.voltage sensitive.
My SS was a very reluctant starter and it often appeared to start as I took my thumb off the button...
yip, that was part of the symptom. it would often just catch at the end of he start cycle. servostart on the fugly i think they call it.
yip, there was a bit of deterioration in the winding's also. insulation was holed in various locations, i could of got a repair kit. but seeing as me work was paying for it i thought, meh, go new. £300. worst of it was about a week later somebody on here i think, posted a link to a sight that was selling them of for £100. honestly, that is so my luck.
