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Ducati 996 - She No Run!!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by ripface, May 18, 2017.

  1. I'd always taken it that a less than optimal starting system took so much current that not enough was left over for sparks but are you saying there's not enough to run the ecu??
     
  2. it would seem that way. but no definitive explanation for it. the one thing i don't own anymore is an Amps clamp, which probably would of diagnosed it in seconds.
     
  3. tho, lets no forget the ecu would still trigger the fuel pump relay and spin it up enough to produce the correct fuel pressure. while spinning the engine over quite happily.
     

  4. This is where pico scope works well for showing interference on ground or power feeds , shows you things meters and amps clamps cannot show .

    Here's a Vauxhall vxr with bad missfire and all kinds of unusual running issues .....it had a ting tong coil pack fitted , can you see all sequenced ignition events on supply and earth lines





    http://s618.photobucket.com/user/mechcanicolee/media/79077732-6D23-48ED-A16A-7A81BC27F79F_zpsox6urjwz.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]




    http://s618.photobucket.com/user/mechcanicolee/media/29639FA2-6767-4806-BB39-29380AE3DF70_zpsuqr5xkl1.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]
     
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  5. haven't scoped out anything since i left a fiat workshop 9years and they where paying for it.
    whats the spikes signify? is that the interference you where talking about?
     
  6. Yes It's bleed over from firing events , random spikes because of bad coil , because most ignition is driven from ecm now it causes all kinds of havoc at ecm .....random fault codes , missfires , glitchy running and so on , it's a good tool ....bailed me out a few times with some of the stranger diagnostic issues
     
  7. cool, think i will get one.
    i was thinking about this when i was out fishing there. i need to get a life btw. i was thinking some kind of back EMF.
     
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  8. Hi All,

    Been a busy boy, but not unfortunately with the Duke. It's still sitting up at the station, abandoned to all intents and purposes. Thanks for all the great suggestions, I'm gonna put some focus to getting the old girl home and work on the problem.

    At the moment I'm struggling getting the broken part of the quick fit connector out of the tank side connector. I had fit new O rings so it was a bit of a squeeeeze to get the connector in. Without the main part to pull on the broken portion is evading all attempts to remove it.

    Any tips? Would it be best removing the female connector from the tank and try pushing from the rear? (Ooooeer Missus!!)

    Cheers,
    John.

    P.S. @Exige Thanks for sending the connector so quickly, and with a couple of spare O rings. Top service and recommended to all! Cheers!!
     
    #68 ripface, Jun 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  9. @Exige

    Hmmm, seems I was a bit ham fisted trying to get the broken portion of the connector out.

    Erm, do you do the tank side connector too?

    While I'm on here ... the female connector has a plastic body and I've already managed to munge it slightly with my trusty mole grips. Any hints or tips to removing the female connector from the pump assembly?

    Cheers,
    John.

    P.S. You'd think from these posts that I'm a noob at this stuff. Been biking for almost forty years now. Jeeezzz!!
     
    • Face Palm Face Palm x 1
  10. Yes I have the Female connectors - drop me a PM - Never removed or re-sealed one my self (only managed to break the Male ones :) )
     
  11. This sounds like the same problem i had with my 996, would run sweet and for no reason cut out. eventualy i found the cause, where the pump and level sensor plug into the loom was burned out on the live feed inside the plug, so pull the rubber insolator back and have look where the wires feed into it.
    I solderd a 4 pin connector into the loom off a toyota, that was 3yrs ago and its been bang on since.
     
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  12. Remove the spring/clip mechanism (be careful when taking the clip out as the spring may 'ping' out across your garage and be lost), then you can get a socket onto it.

    Far better than trying to use a spanner with limited access, plus when refitting the new one be careful to position it in a place where the spring/clip can be easily operated.
     
  13. Another step on the way ....

    Tank side connector arrived courtesy of Exige (Top man!!)

    Time to have a go at removing the old one. Guessing it's an original item as every effort to remove it seemed doomed to failure. Eventually tried the suggestion of removing the spring clip and getting a socket down on to the plastic "nut", The clip was easy enough to remove but then the socket would not go down over the side lips where the clip was located. Decided to remove the side lips .... and .... *SNAP*, the whole thing sheared off.

    FFS!

    Left with the plastic bottom half winking merrily at me from the depths of the fuel pump assembly. Ok, time for the easyout ... but this just started clawing more plastic out of the remains of the connector.

    Eventually I removed it thus. Took a thin scalpel blade and heated it red hot. Used this to "slice" the remains of the connector into three parts by melting through the threads back to the metal. Popped a screwdriver into the slot left by the hot blade and twisted.

    Damn thing popped out as easy as pie! Phew!! Maybe not the recommended way ... and keep that bloody blow torch well away from the tank (Yes, I did drain it first).

    New connector is now fitted with PTFE tape to ensure a nice snug leak free fit. Thanks to the earlier advice I was careful to ensure that the quick fit release was in the correct position.

    When time allows, I'll get the bike back to blighty and then on to the "why is there no spark" troubleshooting.

    Ho hum!

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  14. Hey All,

    Blagged a loan of a trailer and got my 996 home. Think the garage was more pleased than I was, especially as the damn thing apparently has sprung an oil leak in my absence and left a nice stain on their floor.

    Oops!

    One more thing to sort out I guess. I'll pop the fairing lowers tomorrow and see where the leak is coming from. Oh the joys ...

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  15. Good luck with getting it sorted :)
     
  16. Thanks Old Rider ... will keep the forum posted on progress ....
     
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  17. Nightmare ! I’m in the middle of the same mess ! Was sure my pump knackered have ordered another one . You have worried me now !!! I’ve got power going to pump , pump was working intermittent. Completely stopped working when i brimmed the tank with fuel . Very strange ! And weather is great
     
  18. Hi All,

    Finally got back to working on the 996.

    Work, life and death all got in the way this year ... but I guess the call of the good weather finally got me round to de-mothballing the rusty, cobweb strewn two wheeled mausoleum in the corner of the garage!

    Whipped off the dust covers and started working in my semi-methodical haphazard mechanics style. Right! It's not rocket science ... if there's a spark and fuel then the damn thing should run.

    Ah! No spark on front or rear cylinder. If you started on Page 1 then you'll know the original problem was the fuel pump which has been replaced and is spinning up reliably on cue.

    All fuses checked out OK. All relays pulled and tested OK.

    One thing I've noticed is that even with cranking for some time, I get no smell of fuel from the exhausts.

    Upshot is we have no spark ... and no fuel. Not good!!

    Question: Am I now looking at a fried ECU?

    If the ECU is fried what other symptoms would I have. Would the fuel pump prime ok with a duff ECU? All other electrics seem to work AOK.

    Any help gratefully received. Anyone in a 50 mile radius that might be persuaded to loan me an ECU for a 2000 Ducati 996 would be very welcome.

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  19. I doubt it would. If your pump is priming when you turn on the ignition, then try this: after it switches off flip the Run switch to Off. About 10 seconds later you should hear the other relay, the one that would be under your right buttock, click off. That's the ECU powering off its main voltage feed. It now needs a low current feed from the Run switch circuit to bring it back up. I don't think you will get the prime cycle again inside the 10secs - can't recall and not near my bike to check. If you get this 10secs cycle then the ECU is alive, at least. If the pump is coming on and going off then the control line for that is clearly working too. If you pull the 2-pin connectors on the coils you should see one pin on each go up to +12V in synch with the fuel pump running, as they share the same feed. Likewise for the injectors - same 12V feed. Is your ECU definitely getting the timing impulses from the pickup when you crank? If not then no fuel squirts, and no spark.
     
    #79 PeteW, Jun 8, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2018
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  20. Hey PeteW,

    I'll check the crankshaft sensor tonight .... erm .... how do you test a crankshaft sensor? This sounds, going by the current symptoms, the most likely culprit. Thanks for the pointer.

    Cheers,
    Ripface.
     
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