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Ducati Performance Igniter 900ss

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by Pauldonjuan, Oct 5, 2018.

  1. Yes, you select it at zero throttle opening, click a button, then fully open and click that. Mine came in at a little over 4 volts at 100 percent throttle.
     
  2. Update again...TPS fitted and callibrated etc, manage to fit the + and - feed wires the wrong way round to start with in the TPS connector to the loom which gave some weird readings!!! All sorted and as per Ian's I seem to be reading just above 4 volts at 100% opening, although at 0% its reading 0.175 Volts, do you think that indicates its not fully closed?

    Anyway looking forward to trying it out on the road when the weather allows!!!
     
  3. I can't remember if I had a residual voltage
     
  4. Another update after refitting my freshly serviced FCR's. I seem to be getting some sort of interferrance with the ignitech and TPS. It's a strange one as it idles fine it's only happening when riding along at around 4k or above revs. It just seems to have a cough or misfire and then runs fine. Not happening all the time but its there, tried re routing the cables to the ignitech away from the HT leads (which are the upgraded ones from Exige) but its still there! Swapped back to the stock ignition units and its runs fine all be it not as smooth on and off the throttle. Any ideas?
     
  5. What makes you think it’s interference?
     
  6. Paul maybe not interfearance as such, bad choice of words. But something is not right with the ignitech setup that was not there before!
     
  7. Hi, it sounds to me like the carbs need a little bit of fine tuning after they've been serviced. (I'm no expert) 4K you're on the needle, try moving it half a notch, which way depends on wether it feels lean or rich, I'd guess seeing as the air is really cold at the moment I'd raise it (richen)
    Did you upload a new map into the Ignitech? The map it's supplied with is just a generic map that a 4 stroke engine will run on. Hence you have to set the base advance etc.
    I spent ages trying different curves, all just riding the bike by feel, the differences are noticeable tho. I also fitted a retard switch to compare 2 maps on one ride.
     
  8. The Ignitech is a sensitive unit. Mines in the tail, wires away from the HT leads. You have to also have the correct plugs as it doesnt like the wrong ones, I think its recommended by Ignitech to have non resistor? Have you had the map done as it makes a huge difference. The TPS zero'd properly? Theres loads of wee things that can affect it. The more we mess with our bikes the more complicated they become.
    Having said this, it could be the carbs, but if it runs ok with the Kukosans, its more likely the Ignitech or electrical..
     

  9. It's not the carbs!! They have been stripped completely, new seals throughout, new emulsion tubes etc etc, completed by a specialist so i know its not them and as the bike runs fine on the stock Kuksans this confirms it. So it must be something with the ignitech/tps how i have set it up/installed it etc. My unit is in the tail also. Yep no resistor plugs I think, will double check this. Are the stock plugs resistor type?. I susspect its something to do with the map and the tps settings. It's only running the stock map at the moment, when i bought the unit i told the guys at Ignitech what was on my bike etc so they could map accordingly. Whether or not its different from standard I have no idea. Next step was going to be to disconnect the TPS physically and the setting from the map and then take it for a run. This will either confirm its the TPS or the map/unit etc.
     
  10. Go to Ignitechs website, download the standard map for the Kukosans which they come loaded with from the factory, and compare it to the one you have on your Ignitech at the moment. You may be wise to download this map onto your Ignitech and then take it to the tuners for setting up. You telling Ignitech what you have and them setting up a map is not an effective way to get it to run best. I had to take mine to a rolling road and its been well worth it as I have a good few mods. Taking the TPS out the loop will certainly narrow things down too
     
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  12. Let us know how you get on
     
  13. Start by eliminating interference.
    Wrap your cables from the tps to the ignitech with foil and see how you go.

    If your plug has a resistor then it will have an R suffix ie xx9r

    Its worth checking if the plug caps have resistors- if they have and you are using resistor plugs then this will give you issues.

    That said your issue seems very specific, and it doesnt seem to affect anywhere else in the rev range.

    First thing first:
    Load in the basic map.
    Check your plugs and caps.
    If it works with stock kukosan ignitors on your lead and plug setup then its map related.

    Run with baseline map- no tps
    See how it goes.
    Dont be tempted to dick around just yet.
    Recheck your tps wiring and connections.
    Make sure tps is compatible, and if so, double check that its set up correctly.

    One thing at a time. :)

    Oh and get flatties set up on a rolling road.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Update again...it's the TPS, either the unit or wiring. Took the bike for a run today with the TPS disabled and running the stock map supplied by ignitech and she ran great, better than the stock kukosans for sure. Smoother power and more pickup evrywhere!! So just got to figure out whats going on. The TPS came from Liam at Fastbikegear and the ignitech pre wired from ignitech so assuming both parts are good it could be the way i have wired up the TPS at the TPS end. But can't see how this could appear to function and not if you see what i mean.
     
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  15. Check voltage reading and also thst the tps is actually moving properly on the spindle.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. Sev - TPS is moving properly on the spindle and when setting it, its giving roughly cause i can't remember 0.014V @ 0% throttle and 4.1 ish volts at 100% opening and sets ok with the software.
     
  17. It’s been a hot day, it will run fine being on the lean side, last time you tried it out it was a freezing cold day? Worth a thought!
    One of my Duc’s is noticeably different from hot to cold days.
    Do your comparison runs the same day.
     
  18. As per my finidngs when I set mine up. Essentially the TPS is just a resistance track, if there was a manufacturing fault you may get a blip in the middle potentially? Which would give you a problem at certain revs regardless of speed/gear.
     
  19. Good point Paul, will do!

    Will test test this out when i enable again, if its happening at certain revs in a couple of different gears it could point to the hardware!!

    Cheers all
     
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