1299 Ebc Discs And Race Pads

It’s a fair point.

I had the same thing on my race bike. It is good practice to ensure the axle is totally flush fitting (without any burs). By burs I mean any impact damage if the axles been clouted in meaning that the axle isn’t going exactly all the way in.

also ensure that the pinch bolts are nipped up BEFORE you do up the axle nut.

if there’s any burs or it’s not totally in and you do up the axle nut first, it’ll pull the forks in more so than it would otherwise.

It can put things on the piss enough to be an issue as well.


The axle sliders can cause similar issues

 

They gave them a very light lube ,and as you say a tap with a rubber mallet .

 

Sounds like alignment problem, over tightening of the spindle nut, or pistons not retracting. When did you last clean pistons?

I run EBC discs and GPFAX pads. My front wheel runs ever so well.

 

Always best to undo callipers so they are literally finger tight, then get someone to pull the brake lever in nice and tight whilst you tighten and torque all 4 calliper bolts. Centralising them perfectly. If you don’t have another person to help just use a Zip tie or a bungee of some description. I see many people missing this out!. I’d say it’s equally as important as centralisation the front wheel. Don’t forget to compress the forks a few times across it’s stroke, Then do you 4 pinch bolts Hope that’s useful for you

You could also chamfer the edges slightly on the pads like others have suggested. Might be worth a punt. Let us know how it goes. If none of the above works you will probably be into a calliper service or MC, possible pistons and seals... Good luck

 

Just added a little.... hopefully it will all make sense! Not trying to teach you to suck eggs.... just seen this so many times when an important step has been overlooked. Nobody likes a more long winded calliper build! More money and time. But imperative it’s right

 

Always centralise wheel first with the callipers loose or even removed. That way you know 100% they haven’t interfered with centring the wheel. So first off Losing 4x calliper bolts or just remove them. Loosen main front wheel axle bolt, plus the 4 pinch bolts. Now tighten and torque main axle. Then once you have compressed the forks a few times and let them settle you can tighten and torque the 4 lower pinch bolts. That way the wheel will be 100% perfectly positioned centrally. Then either reattach calliper if you removed them and just nip up hand tight so they can still float about slightly by a few mm. Then lock the brakes whilst tightening Down and torquing your 4 main calliper bolts maintaining pressure till they are torque to specified limit. Release brake lever and you should now have a perfectly aligned front wheel that’s not going to be binding forks and should be bang inline. Plus your brakes will be dead square to your discs.

 

I’ve often seen people align the brakes then do the wheel all very well but if the calliper don’t pull up straight it will move the wheel over accordingly so you end up with the front wheel out of alignment,! That will also effect fork glide as it’s not central. I’ve also seen lower fork pinch bolts being done up tight before wheel axle has been completely done up and torqued. Needs to be bang on 100% or you will possibly have problems....

 

Dave makes a good point about centralising the wheel, absolutely critical this to get your forks running smoothly, just give them a really good bounce so you get the maximum travel on your forks before you nip them up.
I use my KTM handbrake to hold the pads on after I’ve aligned the wheel



It was only about a tenner and has been really useful, it also gets used when I go on a ferry with the bike, as well as ratchet tie downs and being left in gear , I slip this on the front brake to make sure the bike is going nowhere...I know,...I’m a bit anal !!

Now onto Bobbins.....
By far the best way I’ve found of keeping your disc brake bobbins nice an free is to use a round file, as below..



Find one that fits nicely inside your bobbins and grips well...


This allows you to rotate the bobbin, so I give it a good soak in brake cleaner, spin the bobbin a few times and just kind of rotate the bobbin in a conical movement, about a 10 degree included angle, not much and you’ll see it start to chuck out a load of brake dust,...then give it another flush with brake cleaner to rinse off.
Take your time working around all bobbins and you will notice the difference


I don’t think bobbins are the sort of thing you want to be clouting with a rubber mallet, this file method is a lot more mechanically sympathetic I think

 

Oh, and I wouldn’t be going anywhere near brake components with oil, WD40 etc,..brake cleaner only imo