like clingfilm? will give it a try. just bough an 8mm triple square, will give that a blast and if all else fails then it's the easy out!
Before you do anything else with the allen bolt take a punch that fits inside the hex and give it a good whack with a hammer, then hammer an allen or torx bit and try again, if it fails try a centre punch and get a good hole going on the "ring" outside the hex then try to undo it by hammering the allen bolt undone. If that fails try the stuff above.
If it's not too badly rounded, can you get a regular Allen bit in there and then try an impact screwdriver? I would also try heating the screw/case with MAPP gas. Sure, that won't make the head any better, but it might require less torque to get the screw out. Last but not least, if you've got a welder, you could weld a bolt in there and then use that do undo it. Better yet, find your local machine shop, take the case down there with a tenner (or two), and ask them to unfuck it for you.
Cheers all for the tips and tricks, I've ignored it all week so will drag myself in there tomorrow night to try and unfuck it haha Until then it sits in status
What is different about a 749 clutch compared to a 748/916 one? Are we just talking about ally plates compared to steel plates, or something more than that?
I had to resort to welding to remove a rounded allen bolt, even with the heat it still took some force to remove. Steve
Ah, OK, thanks. I knew you could get steel and ally baskets, just not heard them described as a '749 clutch'.
Re the bolt, first try some fine grinding paste in the head of the allen key then force the correct size allen key in and see if it turns after you have applied some heat to the locality. If that does not work then Steve's suggestion should do it, although I would use a bolt as the allen key will de-temper when welded and become very soft and may just twist off
I usually remove rounded hex using a set of torx bits. Hammer in the first size that does not fit until it is sitting square and fully bottomed out. There is massively more contact area to apply the torque to on a torx than an allen head.
My own solution is to simply drill the head right off using a 7mm/8mm (have to check what I used last time) which totally removes the head off the screw allowing the cover or bracket to be removed and leaves a nice length of 6mm dia stud poking out which can be easily woun out with pair of grips. Takes only a minute or two and has never failed me.
So had a good go on the engine today and finally finished stripping her. Next job is to try and remove the bearings, not sure whether to get a shop to do them with a press or buy a bearing removal kit and do them myself.
Maybe it’s an age thing now I’m nearly 50, but today I remembered that awful fear of the gudgeon criclip dropping into the cases. I’m so relieved it’s in now lol.
My plan for next week is to strip down the heads and valves, on the videos ive watched they use special tools for the shims and also a slide hammer.. I don't have either at the minute, is it possible to do this job without the special tools? Another question I have, someone mentioned I might have to take the backlash measurements whilst doing the rebuild, is this required as it's the first I have heard of it? Cheers Jamie
No slide hammer required, m5 stud or long bolt to pull the rocker shafts. If you need to replace shims then your best with a tool to get the correct size or you will struggle to get the correct one first time
Finally removed both inspection windows (pain in the arse) also removed the main clutch oil seal.. Now struggling to remove this seal and the brass insert , thinking of trying some kind of bearing pulley! Next job is to strip the head and barrels down
Also Peter Hickman posted a picture of his engine he had coated, I got the company name and they priced around £400 to coat the whole engine .. Looks amazing so will definitely be sending my parts there!
