No, as correctly guessed - fat fingers and mobile combined with advancing years. Now, on with the thread.
Would be very interested in how you do this - I have a similar lift (LV8 600 Nano) and a wheel clamp (K&L) - with manual screw.. that is difficult to hold bike upright and screw... However as I mentioned before the bike has come loose from the clamp - even done up tight... so i always strap if i am working on bike too.. Look forward to some more photos and details... Also of the rear socket set up too..
Thanks for that Hugh. From a thread that was posted on bike lifts I noticed several had electric/hydraulic lifts with the annoying umbilical cord. It’s always at the wrong side of the bench when you need it! Anyway it’s basically two momentary push switches which connect to a unit housed in the bottom of the bench. You simply wire a couple of relays in parallel with these switches. From China you can purchase a two, four , six etc RF controlled TX/RX wHich contains all the electronics to remotely energise these relays. They have a number of programmable features namely Momentary push i.e bench only goes up or down with switch physically pressed. Latched i.e you push the switch once and bench will energise and to stop you push again. Basically it’s the features available in welding machines etc. Regarding my front wheel clamp works really well and the controller has an over current protection device which I set to control the force applied to the tyre. Once set will only reverse to release. This is unit is more involved - constructed from 316 stainless as I hate rust ? and for smoothness has two stainless linear bearings with case hardened rods to ensure smooth transition and ensure the bike stays perfectly upright when clamped. I use a ballscrew again for smoothness and basically the clamp forms the nut. The motor rotates the fixed ballscrew housed within a cylinder which linearly traverses the clamp back and forward. There are pneumatic versions which require compressed air but I wanted to design and construct my own. My custom socket is fairly straightforward - once installed I can comfortably locate a 1meter breaker bar and walk away and leave installed without fear of the socket falling off. I then use a weight hanging from the brake to lock the rear wheel and remove. When I go back to working on my bike will post pics. Will also post a pic of my real time weatherproof voltage monitoring setup I’ve used recently with an intermittent problem on a bike. Very cheap and works well directing me to the intermittent problem which only showed up whilst riding.
Here’s some pics along with mate spraying up his wheels ready for oven. The breaker bar is 1meter long and 25mm diameter and you can leave it like this for ever? Made two sockets one for removing and the other with a 3/4inch drive. All made in high tensile steel and have the option of using my rattle gun. The sockets are designed to apply load only on the flats which protect the apex from damage. Not that time consuming to make but you need access to a lathe and cnc milling machine. Basically centre drill the steel section then using a boring bar remove the material until you reach the Lower part of nut. Remove and insert into milling machine and clock up. Run a program and that’s it. Unfortunately now retired only have access to my wee cnc lathe/milling so back to reality and isn’t capable of doing this size of work anymore.
Thanks Do you have more details on the motor. Power supply, controller etc. eBay part numbers etc.. Thanks
Most bits I had lying about but here’s the controller. It’s a drv8871 adafruit unit available from pimironi at I think £7. The power supply I made myself but it’s basically +12volt dc @ 200mA. My motor draws 100mA and I didn’t want to add heat sinks to my regulators. Your looking for a ballscrew 10mm diameter with 1.5mm pitch available from China and come with bearing manifolds and the all important nut at around £20. A dc geared motor and you can easily estimate the gearing ratio to give a decent rate of travel. You can be very clever by purchasing a 6 way rf controller and use four buttons for motor control. Simply drive from two voltages say +12 and +6. With the gearbox there more than enough torque to drive the ballscrew. I did design a PCM controller utilising a stepper motor , clock circuit to vary the duty cycle for speed control but in the end went for the simple circuit. Adafruit offer a stepper drive version for PCM. For the TX/RX enter 4 channel transmitter receiver 240 volts. They cost about £12 with one transmitter and available within the UK. You need the +12 volt module to compatible with the motor drive. You can simply buy a small switched mode unit supplying +12 volts to run both. Thats about it but it’s important to machine all parts accurately to minimise load on the motor as it rotates. The beauty of the ballscrew is if the power fails it stays put and will not reverse. Used to mill parts when I had time but waterjet the way to go. The only downside is resolution - at best 0.1mm which meant I had to machine my outer casing of my linear bearings to achieve a good fit.
Here’s the heads all shimmed up to minimum clearance as per Ducati spec, newly plated barrels with new pistons/rings ready for assembly onto bike. Leak down tests on head look excellent with no measurable leak when applying 100psi which agrees with my vacuum tests of individual valves. Sent the barrels and new pistons to Langcourt for matching so gap clearances in rings all just above minimum spec so appears good and hopefully runs well.
Almost complete - got sidetracked helping mate rebuild a barn find Honda C90 of all things. His rusty wreck looks like it came out the showroom now and he’s fair pleased. Anyway fired my rebuilt 1098 up today on the bench and runs great so far. More tests tomorrow. For completeness I want to finalise the thread in the coming days once I’m satisfied with the running of my bike. Annoyed with a number of things rebuilding my monster in another thread I decided to make some special tools to aid rebuild. Will post pics of CAD drawings and physical manufactured items. Amazing what’s possible with a dremel, punch, drill, bolts and taps. Will also include discussion and pics of my take on setting belt tension as many more experienced people seem to argue over some basic principles which I’ve spent some time researching in order to make “my” decision on how I’ll approach the process using microphone, laptop, and a manufactured cam locking tool to make the process very simple in my opinion. If it goes pear shaped I’ve only got myself to blame but I’ve spent a considerable amount of time extracting as much info from books, internet and trusted skilled techs that I know from both the bike and car trade before I’m satisfied with my approach. Other people have their approach which is fine but I’m happy with mine which is the important thing for me. Financial outlay of tooling very cheap i.e around £5 total but that doesn’t include labour but I carry out all the work myself so not an issue. For example here’s my cam locking tool.
Will do with with a detailed write up and how approached my belt tension. Please bare in mind I’m no expert as only my second attempt at belt tension . First on my monster after rebuild and now my 1098. Here’s a CAD drawing of my piston circlip insertion tool which works great taking seconds to insert the circlip into place even with engine mounted in frame on either cylinder. Came across something similar years ago on an American video on cylinder bores and pistons but this is my interpretation to cope with inserting the circlip after the piston has been inserted in the bore and placed over the Conrod with limited space to work in especially with the vertical cylinder. As I said works a treat.
Well here’s my circlip insertion tool. Although I’ve manufactured the circlip holding cylinder with my modeller cnc lathe - drill and then bore out to size , I could have easily manufactured from a piece of 20mm tube with a 0.5mm wall thickness. The insertion tool measures just under 19mm to achieve a sliding fit into the cylinder. Anyway here it is. It makes circlip insertion very easy with a very satisfying click when fully home. Basicallly place at angle into piston with the circlip sitting into the grove. Rest on the bottom of hole and gently press plunger and it’s home. The piston shown was my old one for experimentation and the scratches are my fee able attempt to insert with long nose pliers which pissed me off and hence this tool.
Just set up jpdiag and connected to bike and all fine. Whilst playing around here’s my cam locking tool. I’ve modified my CAD drawing to mount the three pins on a rotating platform which would be locked by a central bolt on each platform. If you scribe the viewed side with a protractor with angles it would help to perform cam timing. The half moon cuts allow me to release the pulleys with the cams locked in position. I’ve read many responses in relation to this method but it’s my personal approach and not interested on how other people approach the problem - it’s my understanding of how it should be done and that’s what matters. Regarding the modified cam tool I’m not interested as more than happy with my bike. Who knows maybe in the future as I have a local Dyno.
Here’s my two bikes recently rebuilt - monster 1000 (150k miles) and 1098s (60k miles). Ran till fans kicked in so just waiting to cool down, check coolant and possibly top up. But on the whole fine so far. Monster runs great so far with about 2k since rebuild.
