Well, that was interesting! Plugged everything in, bike started fine. Looked at the measurements on IDaig. On lambda 1 the mV started at around 950mV and dropped to 900 as she warmed up. On lambda 2, zero mV all the time. The engine warmed until she got to around 90 degC and then stalled, just like the last time I rode her. I deleted all the old codes and now there are no errors. Double checked again, no errors noted. How does that sound guys ?? Is there a correlation between engine temp and lambda readings ??
pretty sure they all only have 1 lambda sensor so think you can rule that out lambda2 issues maybe have a wiggle of the crank sensor cable at either end, also check the connector pins for corrosion and clean with switch cleaner (with power off of course)
kind of. fuel mixture changes with temp and load. maybe try disconnecting the lamba sensor and run it up again,
The engine is now "not catching" again and I have error codes PO 351 and 352, Ignition Coil A & B Primary/Secondary Circuits "too low"
I'm going to suggest this is a weak battery. My ST4s is the same, as soon as the battery voltage drops you get lots of cranking power but not enough to run the ECU as well. Charge the battery fully (with a charger, not an Optimate) and try it again.
quickly take the plugs out, reconect them to the leads, jack up the back wheel, slip it in to gear and turn the back wheel. if you are getting a spark then, but not when opperating the starter. boom, new starter required. if you are confident battery volage is good.
Also, just in case - the IAW59M has a power-saving feature whereby if the key is turned by the engine isn't started within 15-20seconds, the injector and coil drivers are shut down and require the ignition key cycling again to be able to start the engine. Guess who flattened a battery and got very frustrated with a non-starting engine when they didn't know about that one.....
Many thanks guys ! The Yuasa battery and reg/rec are both a month old - not that that is any guarantee !! Battery now on charge, do you not like Optimates Turbogeek ? I will try your suggestion tomorrow finm, but the plugs seem to spark OK when cranking
Personally I don't, but it's mainly as I have an Odyssey AGM battery that needs >6A to charge - when hooked up to an Optimate they behave strangely (fool the optimiser into thinking they're done and switching off when they're not - at which point the battery voltage goes straight back down to "flat"). I'd rather give a battery a proper charge when it needs it than have it hooked up all the time, but different strokes.
I don’t know if yours is the same, with headlight on all the time. I’ve started unplugging the multi connector for headlight when i’ve got diagnostics plugged in, just to stop a drain whilst ignition on, when looking at the laptop.
you could fit an additional relay into the yellow/red wire between the headlight relay and the dip switch. Trigger this relay from the fuel pump relay then the headlight will only be on when the engine is running except for a couple of seconds at ignition switch on.
you might have a couple of issues compounding one another here fyi its possible to disable the lambda sensor altogether in the ecu if you want to rule that out as a cause. you will need the IAW reader/writer for this as fin says, if you haven't already, swap out the 2 relays under the tank (they are cheap and can fail in numerous and annoying ways) also fuses: have seen a ducati oem fuse (ecu or coil cant remember) that tested for continuity on a multimeter but had a hairline crack which was impossible to see with the naked eye. It would cause the bike to cut out while in use and usually at speed (it cut out going up radillion at spa , one of my scariest track moments ever!). I replaced all the fuses with new ones after i found that. also dont rule out the solenoid. (I cant see how this is related to the bike stalling when running/warm, but for your starting problems it could be a possibility) i had a 1098 that would turn over and start ok with a full batt,but anything less and it would just turn over and over but not start. after replacing all sorts of things (battery, coils, reg/rec etc) it turned out the the solenoid was at fault. it was working in a fashion, but the internal contacts had become corroded enough that it would draw so much current from the battery when starting there wasn't enough left for the rest of the ignition. when we bridged the high current side of the solenoid, the bike started easily every time. hth
Many thanks guys for your help - much appreciated !! Relays on order, new fuses tomorrow. Fired her up today with voltages and ignition advance displayed. With a cold engine, 14.2V and zero advance showing. She gets up to 90 degC, ( same stalling temp as last time ) voltage drops to 13V, ignition advances to 13 deg and she stalls !! She will restart but only runs for a few seconds - no faults showing. When she is "cold" - blipping the throttle increases the advance but when she is hot there is no movement of the advance value when blipping ?? I will run her again when cool and bring up the lambda mV as well to see if that changes at 90degC. New lambda sensors are £200 !!
The voltage drop is a very interesting observation - and could suggest the alternator windings are breaking down when the engine is hot. It would be interesting to find out your resistances on the 3 x alternator windings when the engine is warm. What's your battery voltage - is the 13V the same as your battery, showing that there's no longer any charging going on? Extra ignition advance to 13° shouldn't cause it to stall - if anything with slightly more advance the engine should run faster. I don't know enough about the maps to comment on the lack of advance when warm.
yip, it does. maybe i should of read the whole thread. i only saw the non start and missed the cutting out thing. back to the ECU, if its the one i think it is and is also used on some fiats, it is v,voltage sensitive.
