Carlo, to give you an idea of what can be achieved with no engine mods here is what came out of my journey along the same route. MY02 748 bought with CF airbox and runners and CF 45mm-50mm and can matched chip. Dyno peak power was 85bhp at 10,500rpm and peak torque 46ftlbs at 8,600 Spec for the bike is 97bhp at the crank less approx. 10-15% drive line losses which is around 85 at the wheel so nothing odd. After trying various changes including JHP titanium pipes off a 998 and a mapped pc3 it never felt right in the lower to midrange. Engine service and set up by Rich Llewellyn (no engine mods just proper set up of stock) and mapped ecu by Chris Steadman on the following CF air box and runners, JHP filter, 54mm JHP cans (many say these are far too big but sound lovely), bike had 18k on the clock IIRC Peak power 96bhp at 11,000rpm (increase of 13%), peak torque just over 52 ftlbs at 8,800rpm (increase of 15%). The flat spot around 5000rpm (which is around 3 or 4 ft lbs drop in torque) will pretty much always be there on a stock motor but the remap smoothed it out and reduced the power drop and torque went from 35ftlbs to 39ftlbs (increase of 14%) Most noticeable was how much easier the engine was to use with a linear power delivery from 2,500 rpm right to the red line and the torque was much more useable. Before the remap you could not use anything below 3,200pm as it was snatchy and painful. Now accelerating up to 9,000 then changing up makes overtaking a lot fun. It also eliminated the occasional spitting back which is not good if you have sock filters in the air box. Claimed stock SPS/R power is around 105 at the crank which gives around 96 at the wheel, however properly set up SP and Rs will achieve a lot more with not much work. CJS charge £329 or £429 for the remap which takes a day to do properly and it is advisable to have the bike serviced beforehand at Louigi Moto. Easily the best value for money performance improvement you could do
Andy....if one thing is consistent in this life, no matter what ambient temperature or pressure, it’s you asking that question whenever dyno results are mentioned!
Andy, they are on the same chart that Chris Steadman printed out after a day in his dyno. Pretty sure it was a before (in the morning) and after (in the afternoon) and have no reason to doubt their validity. It is not possible, nor is there any point to do the set up in controlled laboratory conditions. I would expect the air temp and atmos pressure is taken into account by the two sensors in the injection system.
When I go to the dyno if it's not the exact same dyno with same air pressure and ambient temperature and same guy on the dyno and I don't have the same pants on I can never truly believe the results.
no you can truly believe the results..it is just wrong to try to compare them....like you tried earlier in this thread before someone pointed out to you that its not comparable...and now you're the expert the only thing missing is an angle grinder!
@Fire3500 you can lighten and balance the crank and rods, set squish and compression, port heads, super finish all the components, set timing correctly, there you go full race ready blue printed engine using all the original engine parts.
Can I ask why? Some want it for track, some want it for fast road and some want it because they can. Obviously fast track will be a different approach say than fast road.
I remember reading about Ford blueprinting engines for competition in the seventies. They weren't allowed to modify them, so they optimised them by scouring parts bins for four pistons of matching lightest weight, same for conrods etc etc
Blueprinting is a much abused bit of jargon. I don't even know whether there's value in trying to say what it means these days as for some people it means gathering optimal parts and using those, some people would then take those optimal parts and balance them and some people would take a kit of within-tolerance parts and balance those. I think that for recent factory "blueprinted engines" like the Honda Fireblade SP it's the method you mention above. Even with "blueprinted" reciprocal parts I guess there's still a lot of skill to go into the build and break-in that can deliver the difference between a beautifully strong punchy motor and a grenade-in-waiting.
Yes I believe true blue printing is optimising every component and setting all tolerances and cam timing to perfect speck without any modifications. It may be different these days though. Steve
I am stripping and rebuilding the engine, the crank plug needs inspecting,, might be backing out I am using all standard parts,was reading about the full Monty http://www.sigmaperformance.com/what-is-a-full-monty.html The plugs that blank off the oil ways in the crank securely fixed? is the alternator nut on tight? what do the rockers look like? Valves cleaned the valve seats and Valve faces lapped to ensure a good gas tight seal Check pistons Check rings Verify Squish Check Alternator nut Seals gaskets I am think a check/remap on the dyno after Is a lightened flywheel worth getting?
Yes will defiantly want remapping after, just be carefull with the fly wheel if you take to much off it can be a bit of a pig on the road as it can stall alot. Is that full Monty an 853 conversion??
