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Finding Neutral

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Nifty70, Mar 7, 2026 at 6:30 PM.

  1. And yet, you have all the symptoms of a clutch that doesn't fully disengage after someone fitted a new clutch slave cylinder.
     
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  2. A very fair comment and I shall get it checked. Daft of to me to think that because someone is highly recommended and competent that they are incapable of an oversight.:blush:
     
  3. Standard or big bore?
     
  4. Blimey, now you're asking, I haven't got a clue. It was £120 plus Vat if that would indicate which?

    What is the significance/difference?
     
  5. The preferred, aftermarket replacement slave cylinder made by Oberon makes the lever operation feel lighter because of the ‘hydraulic advantage’ gained by using a slightly larger diameter piston. Just depends on who did your work, whether they used original Ducati parts or the Oberon. Andy
     
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  6. ...and I imagine it's say which one on the receipt
     
  7. If it's a large bore the throw (opening of the plates) is less at the "expense" of a lighter lever feel, this could add a slight drag to the system making neutral a little harder to find.
    If it's the standard bore then nothing's changed and I also would suspect air or a leaky master
     
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  8. Yes, one would have thought so but it didn't:rolleyes:
     
  9. Had similar problem on my Monster 1200S and all I did was adjust the position on the lever where the clutch disengaged ie making the disengagement sooner, improved things quite considerably.
     
  10. Making the thickness of the clutch pack more critical. I find the often 'recommended' 38.5mm is too thick.

    I set mine around 1mm less and have no problems finding neutral or with slippage, both bikes have aftermarket (larger) slaves BTW.
     
  11. If you don't have an Oberon fitted, fit one. The original cylinders fitted by Ducati OEM were poor.
     
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  12. Agreed the Oberon is a good choice, I have one on my Monster and it works great.

    To add, my 916 has an 'Evoluzione' slave cylinder which also works great and has done for over 20 years and it has one major advantage in that the clutch hydraulic fluid doesn't discolour, it also has a bearing in the end where the pushrod locates so that, if it does spin it doesn't drill the cylinder - maybe that isolates it sufficiently to prevent the discolouring?

    The fluid on my Monster (with Oberon) will go black after just a few miles, still works fine but can't be ideal whilst the fluid on my 916 stays it's original colour for 2 - 3 years, basically until I change the fluid - I've never seen it discolour in the 20+ years it's been fitted.

    Shame that Evoluzione are no longer in business because I'd be buying one for the Monster if they were.
     
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  13. Easy check is to bleed the clutch at the lever. Wrap some tissue or rag around the master cylinder to catch drips, crack open the bleed screw and very carefully squeeze the lever until brake fluid oozes out. Then nip up the bleed screw - do not overtighten!
     
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  14. Hoepfully a quick call to the service people will confirm what was fitted. Also worth asking them to re-bleed the clutch for you as a goodwill gesture...

    Oh, and with a dry clutch it's easy to remove the cover to observe the plates & check if they're separating as you operate the lever.
     
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