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First Ducati, My Childhood Poster Bike!

Discussion in 'Newbies Hangout' started by Olly snow, Oct 21, 2020.

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  1. MH racing. Quality bloke and great at what he does, couldn’t recommend him enough. I’ve had some forks and another shock done since he’ll have that one looking brand new, the second one I took him was in a similar state

    https://www.mhracing.com/
     
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  2. Stripping the rear damper.
    I'm assuming you have removed the spring already.
    Clean it well. Set all adjusters to full soft then de-gas it. Push in the Schrader valve and then remove the valve core. It's just a tyre valve. Then, holding the damper by the eye on the body end in a vice with soft jaws, knock out the top cap. It's just held by friction. I use a screw driver and hammer to ease it out.
    IMG_20201028_190155_7.jpg IMG_20201028_185814_1.jpg
    Then you need to push down the seal carrier to hook out the circlip.
    IMG_20201028_190800_2.jpg
    Can be quite tight and might require knocking down with a drift but can also be easy and just push in by hand.
    When you got the circlip out you can pull the shaft assembly out. Be careful, this is where you get covered in smelly oil if you get it wrong. The o-ring on the seal carrier pops into the circlip groove and that makes it a bit hard to pull out just before it pops off and covers everything in oil. Then you have this. IMG_20201028_190843_0.jpg dump the oil from the damper and leave the body to drain.
    Holding the top eye in the vice undo the nut on the piston end. Have a Ty wrap ready and put the whole piston assembly straight onto it. If you mix up the shims it will either be a different damper or more likely won't work at all.
    Then undo the nut on the top eye and unscrew the shaft. Now you can pull off the bump stop, top cap and seal carrier. Inside the shaft is the needle valve that you can push out from the piston end. IMG_20201028_190929_2.jpg
    IMG_20201028_190231_6.jpg IMG_20201028_190220_6.jpg
    Now strip the seal carrier. Is all held together by a big rubber doughnut in the bottom of it. IMG_20201028_191006_0.jpg Hook out the doughnut. You will find a metal washer, the 2 part shaft seal and another washer. IMG_20201028_191102_7.jpg
    Again, put it on a Ty wrap.
    Back to the damper body and gas cannister. Put it in the vice as before. Push in the cap that holds the tyre valve to get to the circlip. Same system as the seal carrier. IMG_20201028_185855_7.jpg
    You can then pull the cap out. The gas bladder is attached to it and acts as the seal as well. Can be tricky to pull out. A piece of bar with the correct internal threat wound onto the cap is helpful but a metal valve cap and some pliers can work too. IMG_20201028_185939_8.jpg
    The bladder can now come off the cap too. No tools required. IMG_20201028_190016_9.jpg
    The cannister is held onto the body in the same way again. Push it down, hook out the circlip and pull it up and off. IMG_20201028_190042_1.jpg IMG_20201028_190104_8.jpg
    Next is the adjuster in the body, it just unscrews. IMG_20201028_190441_3.jpg
    Last is the actual damper tube. This requires a special tool that grips the smooth tube without crushing it. Hazet make one. I haven't got it here so can't post a picture at this point but will do later. There is a little grub screw that needs to come out first. IMG_20201028_191202_1.jpg
    Then back in the vice by the eye. Apply penetrant oil and leave for a few hours. Heat up good and proper. Don't be shy with the heat. F...ing hot is just right. Insert the seal carrier to stop the tube being crushed. Using the special tool unscrew the damper tube.
    The adjuster in the top eye isn't meant to come out. I took it out as my adjuster snapped but otherwise leave alone.
    Putting it back together is a bit more complicated but I can do a guide as well. Putting it on a Dyno is important as you won't feel by hand if it's not right.
    Hope this helps.
     
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  3. That’s a great write up :upyeah::upyeah:
     
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  4. This is the tool to undo the damper tube. Needs the correct diameter insert as well.
    IMG-20201028-WA0005.jpg IMG-20201028-WA0004.jpg IMG-20201028-WA0003.jpg IMG-20201028-WA0002.jpg IMG-20201028-WA0007.jpg IMG-20201028-WA0006.jpg
     
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  5. this is brill mate thank you! Spring off this evening ready for coating tomorrow
     
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  6. Coated the spring today and freshened up the first bit of the shock, really happy with both colours!

    9C3F6F75-B2B4-4903-8D0C-D760E110E4FF.jpeg
     
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  7. Looks good, did you paint that spring platform?
     
  8. Yeah powdercoat base, a wet I thought looked pretty close the factory annodising and a satin clear powder
     
    #48 Olly snow, Oct 29, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2020
  9. Looks very good. Although getting it re-anodised costs very little.
     
  10. Just wanting to make it as future proof as possible. It was showing some heavy corrosion so thought I’d try this. I’m pretty happy with it
     
    • WTF WTF x 1
  11. It does look very good. The colour fooled me, looked like fresh hard anodise.
     
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  12. Rear subframe pretty much sorted. Just got tot clean and protect the under tray before refitting now

    29D70F1D-2335-4A07-8BA8-7FF07662C13B.jpeg
     
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  13. Welcome! Great thread, looking good so far with what you’ve done already and l can’t wait to see the finished result :)
     
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  14. Few more little bits this evening, I bought another under tray from eBay last week, really happy with it, treated it with some carbon collective ceramic trim which brought it back to life abs got it mounted up!
    Chap who owns carbon collective is a friend of mine, really good stuff

    B021A17C-7E81-449C-BA99-317E8300B830.jpeg

    A3CD192D-141A-4B5C-884E-4410449329CD.jpeg

    48DBA3BC-F9BD-4234-B2BC-9C3391022574.jpeg
     
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  15. I bought some of that the other week and used it for exactly the same thing, does a beltin job to be fair
     
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  16. Really happy with how the rear end is coming together, shock is at my dads place being rebuilt. Few more little bits ordered from Moto Rapido, thought I’d better start stripping the loom off the bike....

    well, I’m no electrician however ... some debatable soldering techniques. E03622B3-5BF6-4371-A2C3-EE86887763D9.jpeg

    507899D1-026A-423F-8530-14B226BC1EAC.jpeg
     
    #56 Olly snow, Nov 5, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2020
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  17. Get a suitable connector!
     
  18. That’s the plan, go right through it all, unless I come across a replacement loom
     
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  19. Slow updates due to lockdown, engine is nearly ready to come out, all fluids drained, is there a go to for replacement oil coolers? I have another rad coming but the cooler is looking a little sorry for itself so thinking a nee one would be the right thing to do!

    60E1CE3D-5F0E-4D7B-A247-E3D2BF5D749F.jpeg

    1D881EE8-D331-4AF4-93A4-DE7B5DFECC4F.jpeg
     
  20. Got some time today so cracked on.
    Will concentrate on swing arm first, then il get the frame in work and get that coated up. New fairings arrived last week. I have a genuine set but wanted a set to puton so I can use it without worrying too much about chips etc.

    also started polishing the exhaust

    DE4353E0-80BB-446F-9FCB-8B5B8C6E1D0B.jpeg

    7D814191-EDD1-4884-A38D-8CE749415C10.jpeg

    1C346EF5-AE6F-468A-A852-27AC0EF20E43.jpeg

    8F4D59F9-EDE7-40D8-A003-60029939CECD.jpeg
     
    #60 Olly snow, Nov 21, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2020
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