999 Flashing Key/code On Dash

I have key/code flashing on the dash.
Handbook says switch ignition off and back on to clear but even disconnecting the battery doesn't clear it.
Any ideas anyone?

 

Thanks Nelly,
Have pulled all the fuses a couple of times and given them a good wiggle as I used to have fuse connection problems when I had an SS.
I have also replaced the relay in the battery box with a sealed unit and relocated it to where I can get at it.
I have cleaned up the earth for the ECU, although it appeared fine.
I have taken the antenna shroud out and checked the connector, as well as the big round connector on the left below the tank.
I have no eobd light, although I do have a 37.3 error showing.
However, I have had that error showing ever since replacing the ECU with an 848 one reflashed by Chris in 2017.
The antenna looks ok but I failed to get it free from the shroud with moderate force - are they glued in?
Chris has kindly offered to send me another test ECU to try but is on holiday at the moment so I would like to look at other stuff meanwhile and the flashing key/code seems like a good clue.

 

Would you be able to supply a new antenna??

 

Can't find anything anywhere about a blinking key/code symbol. Derek has been really helpful and Chris has been an absolute star by loaning me a replacement antenna, dash, keys and ECU. The ECU has even had the immobiliser function switched off but I'm still getting the same pesky blinking symbol. Has nobody had this - am I the only one, ever???

 

Aha! You're the first person I've found that seems to have had this, so maybe as it goes away again it's a red herring. It's possible I had this previously and never noticed...

Do you have a 37.3 error showing as well??

 

Interesting.
Is it a standard 999 ecu??

 

Interesting again.
The one I've been using is the later one from an 848 but reflashed for a 999 by Chris w.
I think he used JPDiag rather than TuneBoy.
Good news that you too are getting the blinking key symbol but it doesn't have any adverse effect.

 

Well, the blinking symbol did turn out to be a red herring, as did the 37.3 error I was getting.
I still have both those symptoms but the bike now works fine.
It turned out to be the crank position sensor that was causing the lack of sparks. I took the retaining bolt out, slipped the shim out and she now fires up beautifully.

 

It did fire up beautifully but when I decided to top it up before taking it for a spin, the motor died as I pulled up to the pumps.
Luckily, it was just up the road as I had push it home.

I found the fuel pump wasn't priming but I could feel and hear the relay energising. There was power as far as the connector under the tank, so the problem has to be in either the pump or the wiring to the pump. Annoyingly, having got the pump out of the tank, it now works when plugged in - the joys of intermittent faults, eh????
Seriously weird that a bike I rode into the garage should have had two faults when I came to ride it again but it seems to be the case as the pump was priming ok but still not starting after much swapping of ECUs, dashes, antennas and keys but when I removed the shim from under the crank position sensor, it fired up immediately.
Exige was kind enough to point me at a new pump for £25.00 with a 2 year guarantee but as the intermittent fault may lie in the wiring, I opted to buy a complete s/h assembly from a forum member who had it for sale.
I wish I could announce that all is now sorted and I now have a working 999 ready for Spring but, frustratingly, the seller has yet to send the pump...
Many, many thanks to @chrisw and @Derek for all their invaluable help and amazing patience in trying to identify and sort out what was wrong. @Exige has been very kind and helpful too.
Hopefully it won't be too long before I can report back whether it is all now resolved.

OR

 

All working better than ever now but it's been a very frustrating process, so my heartfelt thanks to Chrisw and Derek for their help, advice and patience.
I wish I could put my finger on a single cause but it's not that simple.
The problems seek to have been caused by a combinationof a crank position sensor on its way out, an intermittently faulty fuel pump and a problem in the starting circuit cables.
To find this out took a lot of substituting dashes, ECUs, antennas and keys in order to eliminate other likely possibilities.

This was largely prompted by a 37.3 error, pointing at the antenna and the code/key symbol incessantly blinking.
Both turned out to be red herrings.
As pointed out by Jusutus, it seems to be normal for this blinking to occur after switch on and before starting but he was the only who appeared to have noticed.
As said, all working now and lots of positives have come out of it.
I now have an "immo-off" version of the later 1098 type ECU.
I now have a spare key.
We now know that a broken OEM battery terminal is easily rectified with one of Exige's cable kits. My OEM positive terminal has broken off and is just a sealed off stub but all the small bundled cables are still attached and get their power through the solenoid connection which now gets its power through Exige's positive piggyback cable.
The final element was a tps reset.
I have been under the impression that a tps reset is something you need to do if you have stalling problems. It seems not.
The tps reset gave even easier starting, a much steadier idle, a smoother and more powerful motor and eliminated the misfire I was getting at high revs and full throttle.
Result!

 

Many thanks also to @Exige who was really helpful in supplying not only a cable kit but also a prototype terminal to try and fix my broken oem cable terminal (which turned out to be unnecessary).
He also came up trumps with o rings for the replacement fuel pump assembly and all in double-quick time