I'm reluctant to list what I did with my own "normal way up" forks, because surely the GXR ones are USD - although that video you found (nice garage - I'd like mine to look like that!) was for a CBR with traditional forks. The manual for my Ducati shows the procedure for working on the Showa USD forks without any mention of needing to worry about keeping the rebound damping adjustment range correct, so I suspect they are rather different (or else the manual is misleading, which is always possible). Anyway, I agree that comparison with the "intact" GSXR leg makes sense. But before screwing all the way out and counting turns, I'd screw all the way in and count, then go back to current setting, before doing the "out", then count that and add the two figures together to see what the full range of adjustment should be. All the damping adjusters I am familiar with involve screwing all the way in, and then out a particular number of clicks or turns, and you want the same range of adjustment to be possible when you are finished. The important thing when it is all back together is to be able to screw the adjuster in in until it stops, with that taking at least enough turns to allow it to be srewed back get out enough, if you see what I mean. That said, as long as you can screw in enough to be able to adjust out enough turns to reach the softest recommended setting, you will always be OK (you can always then make it as hard as you like). My problem was that after reassembly I had less than one turn available between "all the way in" and "all the way out", but it was easily rectified as I have said.
My GSXR has conventional forks Agree, will go all way in, then out, then in again on good fork. Then set other fork all way out and back in full amount. Thx
Putting the forks back in. Haynes says to tighten the bottom yoke bolts to torque, then the top fork bolt then top yolk bolts. Suzuki service manual says tighten top yolk bolts, then fork top bolt, then bottom yolk bolt. I have done what Suzuki say and when I went to torque top fork bolt it was already at torque setting, 35nm, I assume due to pressure from top yolk bolts on it. My gut says do what Suzuki says. Any differing opinions???