Got a little bit of motivation back. I am stuck on the engine (Money) so though I would do a few smaller jobs. I have the forks stripped, and just wanted to confirm oil weight. I have looked at previous post but most seem to quote a weight for modified internals. I just wondered what people thought about std fork set up no mods. I don't think I will ever be riding it hard and because of a comment about hard suspension contributing to frame cracking I would air on the side of a softer set up. All opinions welcome - I have the manual at home but could anyone confirm oil height and quantity, I was going to go for the Motul factory line. This might be a false economy but its done 12k do I really need to change seal these a recession you know (says he waiting to be berated) Cheers Gaz
Gaz, I have Maxton internals on my forks and what a difference. The reason I got this done at some expense is that the standard forks, according to Maxton, are pretty good and I just wanted to improve them, rather than change triple clamps/brakes etc by changing to something else. They are fully adjustable and I would say if you give them an overhaul they should perform really well. I can't help with fork oil weight heights etc just now, but I do have Maxtons printout I got when they returned them to me. I have serviced a set of them in the past and I think I put 7.5 in but I'm not sure as it was a few years back. What I would say is check the condition of the seals, any signs of drying out and I would definitely replace. It makes sense if you have them apart. I also got mine replated as the hard chroming was slightly pitted, which would potentially chew up the new seals. Even though you have relatively low miles, how old is the oil in there? I would be tempted to change the seals as a matter of course, as you will not want to take them apart for a while. Ian
Iirc, 7.5 is standard. I mixed 2.5 and 5.0 to get 3.5 ish and found that a huge improvement. Imho 7.5 is far too stiff and the forks barely work with it in.
Chaps thanks for comments. I just want to get the bike running (so I can ride it for the first time since I've had it - got to be 4-5 years now) then I am happy to go back and fettle it - I know I should replace the seals I just wanted someone to say "no don't bother they'll be fine". The forks are in very good condition Ian. The oil would be years old if not original but after draining I looked down the tubes and it seems very clean with no sludge. I had been thinking about 5 weight, seen this mentioned before somewhere, Old rider does your 999 have same forks as 900ss and do you think you can compare the bikes regarding performance and load on the forks. Cheers Gaz
The 999 has rather more substantial forks I think but when I swapped to the 999, it was surprising how similar they felt to the SS with 3.5 oil. Similar ride quality and similar dive on braking.
Gaz, Maxton did mine as well - they recommend 5wt oil (Putoline as it happens). Easy fix might be to just change the springs, from progressive to single rate (as Maxton do), better matched to your weight. For me (and I think we're roughly the same build), they fitted 0.95kg rate. If you have the forks off, I'd change the seals, for what they cost.
Hi Hejira how are you. Thanks all again for comments Ok Ok I will change the seals, damb (which after market can anyone recommend or go OEM). Regarding the conversion I can see the £ signs already - I simple can't go down that route Ive got mouths to feed. May be when everything is back together and I can start fiddling. I believe the forks are showa GD011 manual says oil Showa SS8 440ml 108mm from top of tube fully compressed spring out.. Haynes says ss8 and SAE 10w20. SS8 is 36.8 centistockes @ 40 deg C which from various list and depending on manufacturer could be either 10 or 7.5. Silkolene PRO RSF 10w was 47.36 and Putoline HPX R 10 was 50 cSt (and HPX R 7.5 is 32), so this possibly could be a source of hard rides if people are just putting any 10w in and picked a high one. What have people tried on standard forks and can you remember the brand. I ve taken a few pics c/w diy tool and ratchet strap, so will put them on when get them loaded up. Cheers Gaz
Gaz, if they are standard non adjustable forks then I would definitely advise the 900 Showas if you are keeping the bike. But that'll cost you
Desmo, I believe they are adjustable, they have a hex on the to adjust to some circumfrential lines about 6 in total and there seems to be a screw at the bottom, so it looks like I can play with something. Remember there is a recession on, I am a tight Yorkshire man. Cheers Gaz
Hello gaz, I put 5w, can't remember the brand, in my adjustable Showas when I replaced the seals, what a difference. In my opinion it allowed the forks to move properly and the damping adjustment to actually adjust the damping. I don't know what was In before. Bumps are absorbed and the damping was spot on for me after a bit of adjustment. Maybe help stop the frame cracking too.
I'm good thanks Gary, although suffering riding withdrawal symptoms - yourself? If I can help at all, give me a shout - I'm only just down (up?) the road
Hairy, Crickey is there a time difference with Scotland you were up early. Thanks for info, it all goes to forming an opinion. Just for people who don't have manual or can't be bothered to look it up. Haynes manual say preload - top stick out adjustment at top is from 10mm to 25mm and to set at 18mm as a base and presume work from there. (edit) The compression damping at bottom is fully in clockwise and 6 clicks out anti clockwise as a base, and rebound damping at he top of the preload adjuster is 4 clicks out (you have 14 clicks on each). Also clamping the forks - the top of the gold tube is 268mm from under side of bottom clamp. I think I will go a little lighter than 37 cSt, Hejira mentioned Putoline 5wt and their web site which is good recommends ATF (37.7 cSt) and an alternative of HPX R5 (22.5 cSt) which is a bit light than I was going to go but think will try it out first. http://jdauteuil.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/voici-une-table-de-comparaison-des.html http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Fork_oil http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm Cheers Gaz
Hejira I am well, at least I am not suffering riding withdrawal, you can't if you have nothing to ride. Cheers Gaz
If the seals aren’t leaking I wouldn’t change them. If they do leak try slipping a bit of film negative in at an angle and slide it round the stanchion to pull out any grit.
Streetfighter, The forks were in very good condition and did not seem to be leaking. After taking them apart they are also very clean inside no sludge and just a bit of grey aluminium coloured residue on white paper kitchen towel when internal were wiped. Also nice and shiny at bottom of forks. Will mull it over. Thanks Cheers Gaz
Mind I ask a question on forks (not meaning to hijack)? Is it possible to replace the gold outers, mine have bad wear indentations from cable rub. If so, how much would it cost?
Another of that club here I'm afraid. It would appear #25 (34910541A) could no longer be available, so a search for a good used set looks like your best bet. Nasher
