Has anyone had their front sprocket come loose on the 1199? mine has come totally loose twice! I know the torque setting for the front sprocket is 55 Newton Meters, I have also got the washer on there too. I also have thread lock on the alan bolt too. But it still comes loose again, its a little disconcerting! The only way I know it's loosened is that the chain rubs on the quickshiter and that's how I notice it. Does anyone have a similar problem and if so have you sorted it out yet?? Tim
Isn't there a part on the nut that needs squashing with a screw driver to stop it spinning Tim? My R6 one came loose this month and wrecked a bunch of threads on the shaft. Luckily there's still plenty left but it's a major job to take the shaft out if it's far gone. Pani might be different as I've not looked.
Not by the look of it there isn't There is something called a thrust washer that I had to order from ducati But its not arrived yet. Ill put a piccy on here when it arrives
Yeh crazy hey! Must be a reason as to why it's coming off. Check you've used the correct thread lock I have the manuals if you need them.
Not posted on the forum for a while but I'll chip in here. It's the same as the 899. Couple of options for you, I know cos I lost the nut completely once during a race. Luckily front sprocket stayed on and I finished the race. I have an Afam front sprocket at the minute so my only option was plenty of thread locker (red) mark it with a paint pen and check it before every ride. It's not moved for over season, even with regular sprocket changes. Seems to work. The other option I have seen on the other race bikes is a renthal front sprocket, drill the nut and lock wire the nut to the sprocket.
can you remove the sprocket without removing the foot rest brackets - workshop manual says to remove these which is a total pain if the chain was removed surely theres enough room to slide the sprocket off the shaft?
cheers don't know if the front sprocket needs changing really but i want to change the chain as the standard one is rubbish.
Parts have been ordered but not yet arrived, its not the usual fittings with a bent over washer, the washer required is called a thrust washer which is domed and the screw compresses the washer into place. Ill put a piccy on here once it arrives and I've done it. Thanks for the input chaps.
Had exactly same issue with my 899, did a track day at Silverstone, rode back to cheltenham was cleaning bike and noticed metal filings on chain, took a closer look and found front sprocket just hanging on - Chain was rubbing on quick shifter. Bloody lucky boy !
Man I have been having a constant problem with my KTM. It has come loose three time and I bought it new so it wasn't a passed owner deal. I have bent over the retaining washer used lock tight and the problem continuous. I am at a loss. I am afraid of it coming off on a ride and ending in a crash. Any ideas?
The crucial point about the "soft" washer is that it locks both to the shaft, via some sort of "tab", and to the nut when it is bent over. This is the essential difference that Steve was referring too. A plain, soft washer would do nothing. In many ways the Belleville washer is a neat solution .. better than a conventional spring washer as it contacts/seals around the full diameter, thus closing any leak path for corrosive fluid (water) to get in. It seems that theory is not standing up in practice though. One possible issue might be that the washer needs to be put on the right way round (concave inwards) otherwise it won't get compressed at all as the bolt is tightened, and will be totally ineffective. Another might be that there is much scope for excessive friction due to surface corrosion, lack of lube etc, to compromise the torgueing up process. Incidentally, you can double these up, to provide even greater locking .. as long as they go on in alternate directions. In this case the first one would go on concave outwards, second one concave inwards. Intuitively, I reckon the best solution would be to get hold of a Nylock bolt to replace the std one. These have a nylon insert, much like the more common ones in locking nuts. Such a bolt could be re-used many times and should stay tight reliably, without the need for scrupulous cleanliness and special grade threadlock. Getting hold of one is another matter though .. they're not commonly available. At a push you could make your own, by drilling a lateral hole through the bolt (close to the free end so as not to compromise the strength) and fitting a short piece of nylon rod in said hole, trimming flush to the thread crests. Haven't tried this myself, but I reckon it should work if done accurately/neatly. Final shot .. you can get loctite which works without the need for scrupulous cleaning first. No 222 .. and its purple. Might be more reliable than conventional grades in this, greasy location.
