A bit late now for you but when we lay new concrete floors we typically place 40-100mm (depending on altitude)rigid insulation on top of a damp proof membrane and beneath a fibrous concrete chape (screed). This gives the whole thing a head start and allows the floor to acclimatise to the temperature of the room above it rather than the earth below it. Thereafter we would put a 6mm wedi-board over it, self level it and tile. If a client wants the luxury of underfloor heating, this would go in between the wedi-board and the self levelling compound.
My concrete floor isn’t perfectly smooth. 1-2mm variations maybe. Do you think this would work? I’ve been looking at 7mm plastic tiles but the rolls would be cheaper and at 7mm thick sound good
1-2mm sounds pretty good. Rough it up a bit and you're good to go. My garage floor was like the Sea of Tranquility so needed severe screeding. I laid these red urethane tiles which I'm very happy with. I went bright so I can see stuff I drop, like nuts and bolts. If you go for dark flooring and drop a fairing fastner, it disappears into a parallel universe.
That's what I have they work well had them down for 2years put something under the stand and there good cheap floor
Thanks but ouch! That would work out to be a lot. Over $1000 plus shipping & customs. But, as you say, you only get what you pay for.
Mine has at about the same unevenness. This is why I went for 7mm. It is not perfect but more than enough for a garage...I can move the bikes on the small stand wheels without a problem. One thing be aware of, the concrete slab will need to be 100% dry(I meant to have some sort of moisture barrier underneath) otherwise the rubber sheets will stop the damp rising therefore the damp will go towards the side walls. EDITED : TBH I think even 5mm should be enough.
I laid the concrete onto a DPC (ground is rock that had been broken up and levelled as part of the landscaping 2 years back), then put in 50mm battens at 40cm centres and fixed the OSB on them. Everything in the whole shed is screwed not nailed so anything can be removed if needs be (apart from the concrete floor that is). I figured that would give me floor that's the same temp/humidity as the shed rather than the concrete and sub-strata. Admittedly, at present, there's no insulation between the concrete and the OSB, but that can be added at a later date if needs be.
I've a raised floor under which insulation can be added if needs be (see above) and used 18mm OSB because I had planned to put some sort of flooring onto it anyway.
Thanks to all for the suggestions and advice. I'll check them out and let you know what I go for and how it pans out.
My shed is not for bike storage it is a workshop for mainly joinery. I will be using it all year round so it will be fully insulated with double glazed windows and doors and heating. My bikes are in the garage so I don't like working in there other than on the bikes. I've just built this summer house for my other half and the workshop will be similar design but much bigger.
When we lay carpet tiles in work, their not glued down as such but laid on tackifier called Styccobond F 41. It doesn't go off like glue but remains tacky so tiles don't move.
If youre worried about that, something like this:- https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ul...VTbHtCh1ACAsMEAQYAiABEgKKq_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Its easy enough to lay and you can put tiles over it quite easy...
how about vinyl ? cheap, insulating and wipable. you could epoxy paint the floor. is there an air gap under the wood, and did you let the concrete dry for a few months before putting the osb down?
Thanks, and yes & no. The OSB floor sits on 50mm battens which sit on the concrete so yes there is an air gap but no the timber framing for the shed we 6x4.8m thanks
