Look at kitchen worktops, sometimes they have a clear out of old lines, wooden tops are tougher but more expensive.
Nope. Decided I need to get garage operable first. And with rain all the time, I can’t just put stuff in and out. So I’m going to fit cupboards etc then in the summer so the walls & ceiling.
A work in progress Next - a proper workbench and vice to replace the collapsible plastic thing (my previous place only had a 6x4 shed and a yard) and a bike lift
Been busy day today. Decided to keep budget low for now, so bought some Sealey wall cabinets, a 6’x3’ metal cabinet and a pair of roll cab tool boxes from American pro (which I think must be Sealey as the cabs are tagged both Sealey and A.Pro). With a worktop from an eBay kitchen clearance place to cut to size and fit. today has been putting cabinets together (no instructions for Sealey and the other put ikea to shame they were that much nonsense). Dumped tolls in one of the boxes for now and started working out where stuff will go. problem no1: Sealey fittings aren’t for masonry and I have battens and plasterboard. Holes are too big for fittings I could use so washers will have to be used probably Problem no2: the widget doesn’t line with battens, so one would be just plasterboard. Not sure how I’m going to fix that. Maybe fit a thin batten across the wall brindhing two and they fit one to that...but means bottom will need one or it will be cooked. tomorrow, plan to cut the work surface to size and see if I have stuff laying around I can use to fit to the roll cabs. Then fit the wall storage pods I have, and try and get most stuff put away....
What a PITA. The fixing holes for the cabinet are just a few MM from top and bottom, so the wood I am using to fix to will have to show! Annoyed.
Following the above suggestion of using No More Nails to fix a sheet of 1/2" ply to the wall why not cover the entire wall, floor to ceiling with ply?