Because I can’t get the stuff tbh. Trying to keep busy....so today got one of the cabinets up, and it’s plenty level too but ran out of suitable fixings for the other one. Cut and fitted the worktop, again run out of fixings to fix to the wall so it’s propped on the roll cabs and weighted at each end so it doesn’t flip back. Thinking eBay tonight and see what I can get delivered by the postie... Starting to get a vision of what will be there when it’s fitted out. Go as far as I can with this them tackle trying to cut a 12’x6’ shed into one that’s 12’x4’..the rest of the stuff in the way lives in there
@chizel @Birdie what fasteners should I get for the other cabinet? 50mm batten, fixing a slim ish beaten between them so I can then fix the can to the wood. Straight into wood.
do you plan on moving the base units? im assuming you are talking about the fixing of the wall units right? if it were me and the base units were staying in the same position, id just fix a sheet of 18mm ply directly above em then fix the wall units to that... that also gives you scope to get fixings where ever you want including fix any lil shelves/baskets beneath the high level units.
sorry, i didn't look at the pic, just seen the alert and answered. hmmmm... i know what i would do, cut out the plasterboard, install batton or ply in the correct spot then put plasterboard back... not as bigger job as it sounds at all, especially given its not been decorated yet. 1 hours work at most.
all that siad. why cant you just fix the other wall unit to the studs on the right? have a gap between the units?
The gap is a little to wide. I have fitted a batten (kind of) over the plaster and then fixed the cabinet to that. Obvs top and bottom (2 battens). So I need to do the other one. I also need to fit batters to hold the worktop in place. Having propped on the roll cabs, they are way too shallow and it would not work. I’m thinking coach bolts would be the right thing. I’ve been using ones that I think came from an old kitchen or something: blunt end, wide thread pitch and Philips head
not sure what you mean by base units too shallow? as far as the base units go i would just fix from underneath into the work top.. little need to fix to the wall as they cant really move from that position with out deliberately trying to do so... my work benches are all moveable and its a big plus.
They are 40mm and the worktop 60mm. Plus the casters are two fixed and two swivel (didn’t know that when I bought them!) so moving if I fix to the worktop May be difficult. Not that I plan to. ‘plus I don’t have any self tapping metal screws
you wont need self tappers, remove a few drawers, drill through the top of ya base units then a few 35 mm wood screws up and into the top. id say even with ya 2 fixed and 2 swivel castors yous still be able to muscle the whole shabang out if needed and given they are soundeded 3 sides, no need to fix to the wall.
lol... ive just worked out what you mean by 40 mm and 60 mm.... ya cabinets are 400mm (40 cm) deep and top 600mmm... it wont matter. put base units about 50 mm back from front of top and that leaves 150 with no support at the back... you would have to put extreme weight on the extremity of that 150mm to make it unstable.. wouldn't happen.
my first job in london was at joinery shop where they used a mix of imperial and metric.. they would say shit like cut me a bit of batten at 3 foot 30 mm.. now that is confusing!!!
Also, the roll cabs aren’t flat, as they are made for another box to do on top. So think I may need to add a bit of wood to make the gap up.
Sorry @Pfk I missed this. The original floor was a 2k paint and it would have been fine for about 3 years, but my bike lift is about 450kg iirc and moving it on the floor cracked the paint in places. So I bought some interlocking garage tiles and keep the bike lift in one position now. I was advised the galvanised rubber from tyres would mark the grey tiles and I should go for their toughened black ones, but I didn't want a black floor. They have marked but it's minimal and you can always cover them if if you intend to work in one spot. I also got some pieces of Aluminium chequer plate cut for under heavy patches (bike lift, centre stands etc)
My foam tiles are proving to be an issue with the car skates. Think it will have to come up where I want to move than car around.
