Anyone got any info on these hand held starters, what are they connecting too pictures would be useful Been asked if I can make one but never seen up close how they fit
Is this connecting to where a starter motor might sit? Too high to be connected to the end of the crank. This one looks interesting - battery and starter motor in one package
Andy its 1098 or at least it will be, all I've seen so far is a picture of a pile of parts Bike is allegedly one of the ex Effenbert Liberty machines but its in Hungary so I can't just pop out to have a look He has a remote starter as in a lawnmower engine with a cart wheel but not happy with that
Okay, I believe that the 1098/1198 can still use the early 916/996/998 style of 4 spring slipper clutch where the pressure plate has 6 holes. The 2 diametrically opposite holes (with no springs) are for a spigot starter. I’ll have a poke around for pictures. Andy
I have one of those clutches somewhere I'll dig it out and have a look Just as a thought if I machined a new alternator case cap with an oil seal in it and made something like this crank turning tool ! Need to consider the forces on the end o the crank ? Don't know how I get myself into this shit
I reckon it would spin and you would shear the tabs off the crank tool. I managed to do that to one simply by forgetting to take the plugs out.
an old Pingel would do it if you could find one/copy one, it needs a throw-out Bendix incorporated (see pictures). These didn't lend themselves to large/high compression twins to be honest, the uneven pulses while turning put quite a destructive load on any drive if going direct to crankshaft. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401913924535?ViewItem=&item=401913924535
Surely there must be some kind of decompression going on there? The torque on that socket on the hand held spinny thing must be immense
Chris that's exactly the sort of thing I had in mind, reckon I could make it for half what they are asking though The problem is the interface
Derek .... wasn't for one minute suggesting using the tool, just the idea, I'd make it out of something a bit more stable than an off the shelf tool
Quite right, would have to be a permanent fixture with a decent oil seal with sealing edge/lip set-up in place. Also as said, the std slots in most Ducati cranks probably aren't suitable for constant starter engagement in this way, you would be better off adapting/using a deeper crankshaft nut for this use, but this would have to be on the R/H (clutch) side** of most Ducati engines* due to the crank rotation, so as to tighten, rather than loosen the crankshaft nut (as in lower picture, std gear fixing nut cannot be used/accessed, additional drive would have to be attached directly to crankshaft nose). *not sure which engine you are adapting. ** not straight forward, (see below) and would need investigation but crank is tapped on this side also.
Not quite sure what you mean by "spigot starter"? The "spare" holes are for a pin that locks the slipping action of the slipper clutch, which is what makes the paddock starters a bit tricky. I went through this ball ache with a 999RS engine. Long story short you can't just fit starter parts to an RS engine because the crank isn't drilled like a road engine, so the starter sprag/parts receive no oil. So my perfectly good 6 spring slipper clutch was pulled out and replaced with a Corse 4 spring unit. Of "Corse" the locking pins are impossible to find but I found a photo of a pin fitted to one of the Factory bikes and guess-timated the rest: I experimented with electric type roller units but against the near 14:1 compression on two big 104mm pistons they don't have a hope, I reckon you'd find an 1198 at least as bad, if not worse. It wasn't a lack of grunt, it was just the fact the bike wants to climb over the back of it or spin against the tyre as soon as you dump the clutch, no matter what gear you use. I had an HRC'd CBR1000R superbike with no starter motor that would bump start at almost walking pace but these twins are a different kettle of kipper's: that point in the crank rotation where both pistons are rising at the same time makes for a huge amount of compression to overcome. Talking to an ex-BSB/WSB mechanic he told me their starters basically wind the thing up to approx 100kph in 6th gear, using the rear wheel as a flywheel. Which at least gave me something to aim for. So I bought a 6.5hp Chonda (Chinese Honda copy) with an integral 2:1 reduction drive and centrifugal clutch, fitted a go kart wheel/tyre. The engine (inc battery for the electric start) cost $350 AUD delivered to my door, rim was $70 AUD from a kart shop who were kind enough to chuck in an old tyre for nothing. A kid's rusty old trolly thingy was sacrificed and chopped up to mount it on. And it works an absolute treat! Ignition on, bike in 6th gear, clutch in, starter against the tyre and wizz it up, BOOM! Clutch in, foot on the rear brake, pull the pin and away you go. Video here of an RS being started with the pin pulled at about the 50sec mark: My 6.5hp of raging fury: Trying to use any hand held crank starter? After the way the bike kept trying to climb over the back of that electric unit in the background (above), I reckon it's going to either dislocate your elbows or hurl you against a wall. Sorry for the blather, starting that bloody RS was a long and financially painful lesson!
"Trying to use any hand held crank starter? After the way the bike kept trying to climb over the back of that electric unit in the background (above), I reckon it's going to either dislocate your elbows or hurl you against a wall." yes, did try and "hint" at this earlier in the thread, the only way to try and dilute the problem is to use effective down-gearing (as you have done using rear wheel for contact point), it just means that rotation speed of "starter" is far higher.
